Courrèges has long been synonymous with futuristic fashion, and its Spring/Summer 2025 collection further cemented that reputation. Under the creative direction of Nicolas Di Felice, the brand delivered a sleek, forward-looking collection that combined minimalism with bold architectural shapes
Words MATTIA MARCASSA BARBIERI
The show, held in Paris, was an exploration of fluidity, structure, and innovation, all while staying true to Courrèges’ space-age roots. The setting was pure and hypnotic. The room was completely covered in white, a sort of pure white that enveloped everything, from the columns to the floor, creating a sensation of emptiness and zeroing out, as if to distance oneself from everything around us. In the center, a large black circle embedded in the floor contained thousands of small metal spheres. Their continuous and oscillating movement, generated by the inclination of the underlying surface, recalled the motion of the waves of the sea. However, unlike natural waves, the sound produced by the movement of the spheres was cold, metallic, yet magnetic. A contrast between natural flow and artificial precision, which represents the central theme of the collection. Through this installation, Di Felice wanted to evoke the concept of infinity, also recalling the iconic Foucault pendulum exhibited at the Pantheon in Paris, a symbol of perpetual motion. Like the pendulum, the spheres represent an endless oscillation, a reflection on the inexhaustible cyclicality of time and space. The illusion of continuous movement, the friction that generates sounds, suggests a connection between the past and the future, between immobility and change. These elements, combined with the visual impact of the scene, contributed to creating an immersive atmosphere, where every detail was designed to involve the senses.
The SS25 collection opened with a series of looks that highlighted Di Felice’s keen sense of geometry. Clean lines dominated the runway, with structured silhouettes softened by fluid fabrics. Dresses, jackets, and skirts were marked by precision tailoring but designed to move effortlessly with the body. One of the standout elements was the play on transparency. Sheer materials were expertly layered over more solid pieces, creating an illusion of weightlessness, while mesh and vinyl continued to echo Courrèges’ love for futuristic textiles. The color palette was predominantly monochromatic, featuring whites, blacks, and metallics, with occasional bursts of bold reds and electric blues. Accessories were kept minimal but impactful. Sleek, geometric sunglasses and architectural shoes were paired with the collection’s ensembles, enhancing the sci-fi aesthetic. Notably, the show made a statement on gender fluidity, with many of the looks being interchangeable between menswear and womenswear, emphasizing the brand’s commitment to inclusivity.
