Olivia de Rothschild, creative director of Caron, delves into the transformative power of fragrance and the brand’s 120-year legacy of innovation. From the sensory immersion of their pop-up collaboration with Harry Nuriev to the spiritual essence of Oud Excelsa, she explores how perfume transcends time and space, revealing deep connections between the wearer and their inner self. With reflections on creativity, heritage, and the subtle manipulation of time, Rothschild invites us to discover the profound layers of perfumery
Words DOMENICO COSTANTINI
Caron has spanned 120 years of progressive and innovation. Do you believe that boldness is a quality that can be molded over the time, or it is a spark to keep alive in every creation?”
I think there is a duty to innovation. So, it is constant and by being constant it manifests though a spark in creations.
In designing the pop-up with Harry Nuriev, how much of this space is real and how much of it is a sensory experience? In what way the architecture of the store can change the perception of a fragrance?
The space is real, and we wanted to leave space to experience with the depth wanted. We made our sensory experience a physical experience through the reimagination of the fountain with the central piece and through the drawers that can be opened to experience more of the heritage.
You described Oud Excelsa as a fragrance that transcends worlds and times. Where do you see the line between olfactory experience and spiritual experience, and do you believe that the essence of oud can connect us to something greater?
I personally don’t see a particular line. some fragrance contributes to accompanying you though spiritual time, but I think there is a certain lightness where is doesn’t need to be thought through or oud essence is culturally very spiritual, and I think it has a depth that can ground you to something deeper in a sense.
Fragrances such as Tabac Blond and Pour Un Homme de Caron seem to open doors to different eras. How do you think perfume can manipulate time? Do you think that fragrances can reveal something of the wearer’s destiny?
Perfume has a powerful impact on time. Scents evoke specific moments in history wether it be personal or historical , transporting us to different eras through their olfactory composition. A perfume can manipulate time by triggering memories, emotions, and sensations tied to a particular period.
As for destiny, fragrances reveal a lot about the wearer’s personality, mood, and aspirations. While it may not directly dictate one’s path, the choice of scent can reflect or even shape how someone sees themselves and how they wish to be perceived by others, subtly influencing their future interactions and experiences. It’s almost like an invisible signature that can hint at where they are headed.
In a world racing toward superficiality, how can a perfume anchor someone to their inner essence? How do you believe exist a balance between the precision of raw materials and the unpredictability of the unknown, that mystical sense of discovery that defines each new fragrance?
Perfume offers a rare opportunity to reconnect with your inner essence. Scent bypasses the noise of modern life, tapping into personal memories. It becomes an intimate form of self-expression. A well-chosen fragrance can remind us of our authenticity, serving as a subtle yet profound anchor to our individuality.
What personal experiences have influenced your creative approach to perfumery? Is there a specific moment in your life that made you realize the transformative power of a fragrance?
I think all experience influences creativity. Nature, art, emotions – there is therefore not one moment that made me realize the transformative power of fragrance, I think musc oli is the perfume that made me closest to seeing the impact a perfume can have mostly because I spend so much time with it.
