The abundant and eternal optimism of California merges with the magic of Chanel, drawing visitors into a a light-hearted and happy fantasy
Words DOMENICO COSTANTINI
Chanel, in unison with fashion and cinema lead us into a waking dream, nourished by an energetic invitation to step into the spotlight and never leave the dance floor. The time has come for the Cruise 2023/24 collection to unfold the multiple facets of its colourful, joyful and elegant world. From the glamour of the 1920s and 30s to the rhythm of the 1970s and 80s: the decades take centre stage, with smiles on their faces.
“Between a tribute to the glamour of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with aerobics, sports and roller skating, between the dream on one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance,” says Virginie Viard.
Rhinestone-covered mini-shorts and jumpsuits, embroidered bustier and little tank tops, 1960s- inspired suits, bathrobes and casual pyjamas, 1930s-style shoes and their disco variations, crêpe de chine and terrycloth, swimsuits, wrap-around tops, legwarmers and evening dresses: it’s all about the collective imagination as the history and codes of CHANEL join the dance.
A burst of vitality is transcribed in a multicoloured palette carefully balanced between the timeless House colours, pastel shades and new flamboyant tones. Beyond the emblematic white and black, there are nuances of pink – so dear to the Artistic Director – as well as gold, evoking cinema’s halcyon age, its empress-like actresses, the bright lights of the projectors that illuminate them and the eternal Californian sunshine.
This scintillating energy at the heart of the collection is imbued in fabrics, embroideries and prints. It takes a lead role expressed through a range of motifs, from the most geometric to the most figurative: gold squares, black and gold chevrons, disco balls, milkshakes and roller skates in a spirit favoured by Karl Lagerfeld, splendid coconut palms and sunsets over the Pacific Ocean. It also radiates through various accessories where rhinestones, ombré shading and metallic leathers take pride of place.
