Here are the best shows from this bustling Milan Fashion Week, as chosen by the editorial team.


“Like the sea that washes every shore without prejudice, so too a museum is an entirely open space, nourishing those who are drawn to it. Freedom, energy, community.” Says Sabato De Sarno referring to the Spring/Summer 2025 Show held at Milan’s Triennale.

Every piece is an homage to tailoring: long coats in wool or bonded leather have high vertical pockets and exaggerated openings at the back. Formal wear unfolds in two shapes, one with sharp three-button single-breasted suits that have a high break line and pressed sleeves to keep the exact silhouette; the matching pants have a buttoned tab to hold the ankle. The other, with straight yet relaxed doublebreasted jackets, cut from light poplin.

As you may have already understood, the intertwin with the coast is crucial, even if the collection is plenty of utility-inspired elements: the shirts are not classic bowling shirts; they borrow the three-pockets from the utility world, some trimmed with beaded fringe, others with applique embroidered flowers. All of them feature infinity prints, with surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves. Zip-up jackets are short, the contrast collar of boxy leather jackets looks like corduroy but is embossed leather.

Long-sleeve polo shirts are handknitted with an intarsia of paillettes. Jackets, in sorbet colors like green and yellow, are adorned with beaded fringe that move like waves.

A sculptural pointed toe continues the evolution of the Horsebit, in either boot or loafer. The moulded sole of the Gucci cub3d sneaker has interlocking G’s with a 3D effect, also on the moulded sole of scuba slip-ons.

Some inspired by archival Gucci luggage – valigeria – made from brushed leather that’s bonded with the Gucci logo, with detachable pieces. The Gucci B bag comes in regular size, as well as a mini version. Padded leather bags are super soft, like a pillow, with magnetic closure. Crossbody bags have a flap closure, fastened with the signature Gucci snap hook hardware. A functional bucket bag is cut from gaberdine canvas twill, dipped in pigment for a modern finish.

Belts are held by a double-ended snap hook closure, echoing the shape of the Horsebit. Bracelets and necklaces are in segments like bamboo. Sunglasses, whether worn or carried backwards, have chunky frames, held by a vivid colour Gucci strap.

“This collection speaks of encounters – incontri – between the city and the beach, and among people who love life. Ultimately, it speaks about freedom. I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart. I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes.” Sabato De Sarno concludes, with a positively hopeful message for the days to come.


Spring/Summer 2025 from JordanLuca is a story between dance and contrasts, honoring traditions yet unbound by truth. Intense emotions, yet meticulously crafted.

A ballet between the ethereal grace of the ballerina and the stark, synthetic world that surrounds her.

In this collection, desires are forever imprisoned in plastic. The outcome confirms the duality that defines the brand: while the ballerina dances solely for herself, JordanLuca’s man embodies an unmistakable sexual desire.

The concept of what is real and what is not is underscored by frequent use of synthetic applications. The genuine beauty of ballet is likened to that of a rose, cast in 3D-printed resin as a testament to eternal love.

Lust and desire. Evolution. Timelessness. A tale of contradictions: the idea of the ballerina’s tutu is subverted by black. Opulent duchess silk contrasts with lycra hugging the legs.

Perceptions of luxury are fragmented. Silk blends are plasticized, as are denim, tailored garments, and outerwear. The paradox of Japanese tweed offers a chance for self-display; cropped jackets, square-cut with padded shoulders, antiqued metal buttons, and sparkling highlights offer hope, while elsewhere, zipper functionality is pragmatic.

JordanLuca juxtaposes decorative black lace under a veil of silver film and laminates men’s tank tops with metallic hues. This creates a dichotomy between societal expectations and freedom. In a world where nothing lasts forever, SS25 captures fleeting authenticity.

The seductive floral garments are enriched with handmade tears and folds, blazers engulf the body, and parkas are plastic-coated for protection.

The SS25 men’s collection includes pointed pumps in black leather and kitten heel boots with a strap. JordanLuca’s Gotham Bag in three sizes and a reimagined Weekender in crocodile-effect leather, laminated floral patterns, and Italian suede.

JordanLuca’s SS25 explores the theme of wild intimacy. Two seemingly distant worlds merge into a single, restless, and conflicted image.


Luca Magliano celebrates his childhood memories with the Spring/Summer 2025 collection: ‘The edge of the sofa, a soft and worn-out rock in the middle of the sea of the drying floor, and chairs overturned on the table, like a fantastic and unreachable Venice.”

These words in the press release reflect a desire to capture a specific fleeting and nostalgic period of life, mirroring Magliano’s collection. On the runways, you’ll find frayed shirts, tactile knitwear that exudes a lived-in feel, cotton workwear suits that mimic the worn look and denim print, and trousers with double or occasionally rolled waistbands, designed to emphasize garment construction, all showcased in warehouse settings.