FALL WINTER 20 SEEMS TO BE THE PERFECT SEASON TO BE COOL BLOWING OFF OUR FREAK (DARK) SIDE. MAGLIANO, MSGM, MARNI COLLECTIONS PROVE IT…
Text by: Fiammetta Cesana
MAGLIANO FW 20
“Time is fragmented, there is only darkness, a white powder rises at each step and you wonder what it is. Clothes torn as a sign of mourning, around some ruins that you can’t decipher lead you back to your usual place once again. Always welcoming in the spirit of the Mediterranean Gothic.”
Magliano’s menswear collection captures the moment in which getting out from the follies of a night dream our mind sticks and gets obsessed with imaginary in-between real and oneiric. Reminding the set of a gambling house, hosted at Euro Jolly bar, the show presents models taking the runway among billiard’s tables and green pendants.
Models and outfits become part of a theater of the absurd, where the Fellinian perspective of the fake documentaries merges with the cinema of Almodovar, mixing the carnival, circus and Spanish movida with grieving wardrobes, the epitaphs with 90s yuppies style, Celentano with Basquiat, cyborg ravers with spiritual and tribal freaks…
MSGM FW 20
Following up with such gloomy evocations, “Haunted” is the name of MSGM’s FW 20 menswear collection made in collaboration with Dario Argento. The master of the thrill’s vision of life and aesthetics is applied to sharp-lines clothes narrating a bloody fashion tale. Lights and shadows plays, a color palette moving from emerald, to cyclamen and terracotta till, obviously, “deep red”, alongside prints of carnivorous plants, monsters and cats, perfectly enacts a new script of the Italian filmmaker.
“I am obsessed with Dario Argento. It was an honor to be able to spend time with the Maestro, to discuss about his films, his aesthetics, and life.” Massimo Giorgetti, MSGM’S creative director, said.
Accompanied by rigorously black accessories, from boots to leather gloves recalling Argento’s murders, the garments, casual and sartorial, embodies a dual character, quoting the Maestro: “We are in two. My dark side and I”.
The charm of horror then, just as in his movies, culminates with a touch of humor, as we see in the monster’s hand making the middle finger on a sweatshirt, or teddy bears sewn together on a patch as if they were a three-headed creature.
MARNI FW 20
The atmosphere of dark reaches also the stage of Marni’s show, which turned into a real performance directed by the artist Michele Rizzo. Here the sense of creepiness is linked to a need of reflection over the relentless speed of today’s world, which gives the illusion that time is leaving less marks than it actually (dramatically) does.
In a cave-like scenario, where lights turns on and off alternating collection’s details in highlight, the looks are “archetypal” hybrids, totally incomplete and detached: from dilated pants to jackets with no match between right and left, front and behind, above and below…
But, then, through the plastic, slow dance of the models-performers, the garments finally unite together and find their own definition. This slowing down is what the creative director, Francesco Risso, wants to covey as a necessary process to not loose the meanings of fashion, and life, in a too fast reality. We all need to stop and reflect to pave the way to new possibilities and new lights, out of this Plato’s, digitally sature, cave surrounding us.