Taking us back to the 50s Maria Grazia Chiuri has re-interpreted Christian Dior’s feminine codes
Text by : Annarosa Laureti
Season after season at the head of the French maison, the Italian creative director has made the feminine power her leit motiv. This time, leaving from the Teddy Girls – the counterpart of the Teddy Boys, one of the first English subcultures – she took to the catwalk a truly squad of combatants.
At Musée Rodin – whose walls were covered up with the alphabet by the Italian artist Tomaso Binga (pseudonym for Bianca Pucciarelli Menna) – models marched proudly and self-confidently.
The FW 2019 collection sees menswear pieces redesigned in a girly and delicate way: leather jackets and vinyl coats, leather pants and jeans are shown matched with ankle-length and tea-length skirts as well as delicate tops and shirts with a bow detail.
At the iconic Bar suit is added a modern twist: a masculine shape enhanced with a velvet collar.
The color palette includes tones of red, velvet and ice blu and esmerald green, in addition to many shades of grey and nude beige as well as black and white hues. Stripe, check and vichy motifs enriched scarfs, coats, sweaters, shirts and skirts while flower details and topical stamps – inspired by Mario Schifano’s creations – give a springy touch even in the colder season.
Dior woman chooses the comfort: flat shoes, sandals and boots, and again kitten-heeled pumps, from tapered tip, take the place of the high heels, however still maintaining a very feminine appeal. Belts and bum bags, to wear like corsets, highlight the waist, while the fisherman hat is the accessory always to wear, also matched with evening dresses made by a main body and a skirt with sequins details.
Finally, it cannot miss serigraphic T-shirt, this time truly homage to the American feminist poetess Robin Morgan that shows off extracts from Sisterhood is Powerful (1970), Sisterhood is Global (1984) and Sisterhood is Forever (2003).
Surely a loud hymn to sisterhood and femininity!