How Our Legacy and GR10K reimagined the Boundaries of Identity, Function, and Artistry at MFW25
Words TOMMASO FALOCI
This year’s Milan Men’s Fashion Week presentation schedule was marked by a blend of established brands opting for new, unconventional formats and the exciting emergence of fresh voices from the Milanese design scene. Offering more intimate and conceptual experiences, GR10K and Our Legacy, with their appointments reflected the evolving nature of fashion itself, as designers continue to seek new ways to communicate their vision.
GR10K
Drawing inspiration from the expressionist collective led by Kandinsky, with ‘Der Blaue Reiter’ GR10K confidently reimagines the intersection of functional clothing and artistic creativity. Presented within the walls of a school, the collection interweaves automotive outerwear of the 20th century with punk graphics and darkly-hued sweatshirts, challenging the conventional boundaries of workwear.
Core of the collection’s presentation was the performance, aptly titled ‘Strydent Syntax’: it unfolded in the main hall of a school, where a stark and literal setting framed a poignant reflection on 15th-century chanson. A group of 12 classical chant students delivered a haunting performance, blending Clément Janequin’s repertoire with popular European chansons. Their non-linear vocal droning was distorted by contemporary performance syntaxes, electronic drones, and fragments of audio linked to the legal battles surrounding Mark Rothko’s estate, creating a soundscape that felt both historical and unsettlingly modern.

The choice to incorporate vocal sound-making nods to Gus Van Sant’s Last Days (2005), where muffled tones evoke the serene yet somber fade of niche culture. In contrast, the garments themselves reject complexity and technological dependence, favoring a design philosophy rooted in simplicity, authenticity, and irony. With vibrant, childlike hues and dissonant cultural elements, the collection offers a sharp critique of contemporary marketing conventions and surface-level aesthetics.


The collection’s palette mirrors this subversive narrative, drawing on the rich, smoky hues of tobacco—deep browns, muted greens, and earthy tones—while flashes of yellow evoke the patina of timeworn interiors. As with the chairs and dissonant voices, every detail tells a story, balancing chaos and control, irreverence and depth.
Together, these elements weave a story of transformation, where identity, environment, and tradition converge in a dance of reinvention—a vision both nostalgic and forward-looking, grounded yet unbound.
Our Legacy
With ‘AULA’, Our Legacy unveils its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, a subtly-poetic exploration of shifting identities. The collection contemplates how appearance and environment become instruments of transformation, seamlessly navigating the thresholds between casual ease and formal precision.
The presentation delves into the profound interplay between environment and profession, unveiling how these forces reshape our perception of identity. Each individual becomes a canvas of duality, styled in two opposing guises that render them nearly unrecognizable: this striking contrast captures the delicate tension between the comforting anonymity of daily life and the razor-sharp precision of being “on duty.” With wigs, bold hairstyles, and transformative makeup, the boundary between self and role dissolves, inviting each person to step into an alternate reality, like a game of masquerade.


The garments themselves echo this metamorphosis. Athletic staples, like the humble track suit, transcend their origins, morphing into structured, uniform-like silhouettes through the use of high-twist twill. Pieces such as the Casino Jacket and Ponte Shorts embody this transition, balancing the familiar with the disciplined. Meanwhile, the traditional tuxedo, epitomized by the Supper Coat, is reimagined in textured ash grey melton, stripping away its formality and infusing it with a tactile warmth.
This narrative of reinvention mirrors the evolving tale of the traditional tobacco store. Once a haven for indulgence and luxury cigars, these spaces have reshaped themselves for the modern world, now serving as bustling parcel hubs. The collection draws its palette from the evocative atmosphere of these transformed spaces. Deep, rich browns and ash greys conjure the essence of tobacco, while muted greens and earthy tones whisper of leather, smoke, and aged wood. Hints of yellow thread through the collection, capturing the patina of smoke-stained fabrics and interiors, a quiet nod to time’s lingering touch. A story of transformation unfolds, crafting a vision that is both rooted in the past and looking toward the future—grounded yet free.