Loewe SS25’s Bold Experimentation with Form and Function
Words MATTIA MARCASSA BARBIERI
Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented under the direction of Jonathan Anderson, blended surrealism with the mundane, offering a juxtaposition that played with expectations.
Set in a minimalistic white box, the show emphasized the garments’ narratives, unburdened by excessive set design. One of the most striking features was Anderson’s exploration of materiality and texture, seen in dresses that resembled glossy wet paint, a nod to Loewe’s avant-garde take on everyday materials. The sculptural elements, from oversized bows to exaggerated sleeves, were also a highlight, balancing artistry with wearability. This tension between the artistic and functional is key to understanding the Loewe ethos, as Anderson redefines traditional silhouettes in a way that feels both forward-thinking and steeped in craftsmanship.
With this collection, Loewe continued its growth with modern and innovative reinterpretations, redesigning the female silhouette in a nostalgic way compared to the codes of the past. Cultural relevance was one of the central themes of the show, and it has been able to combine history, innovation, and harmony by moving away from proposed trends to reconnect to a reality closer to us. Closing the show we find a bird, symbol, and representative of the dogmas of the brand: freedom, elegance, and continuous innovation between past traditions and the future to come.
Prints added a romantic and thoughtful dimension to the collection. Roses in different shades adorned the flowing dresses, creating a dreamy and almost ethereal atmosphere. Other prints celebrated the world of classical music, a central theme for Anderson in this collection. T-shirts with the faces of Bach, Mozart, and Chopin echoed the musical score outside the pavilion, connecting fashion to musical tradition. A particularly striking moment was offered by the white shirts printed with the famous Van Gogh sunflowers, a tribute to the artist who has deeply marked the collective imagination. Another artistic reference appeared with the print dedicated to Manet, adding another layer of meaning to the collection.
Accessories, another strong point for the brand, were equally experimental. The fun yet opulent touch was enhanced with shoes with lengthy, abstract shapes and bags that imitated commonplace items, further enhancing the whimsical and creative vibe. The presentation of these items felt almost ironic, challenging the typical hierarchy of fashion staples by elevating them to near-art objects.
What stood out most, however, was the collection’s intellectual approach to fashion. This wasn’t merely about beautiful clothes; it was a commentary on the relationship between the wearer and the world around them. By distorting familiar elements—like reshaping trench coats or twisting classic shirting—Anderson invited the audience to question how we engage with the ordinary.
Loewe’s SS25 show represented without any doubt momentum in this past fashion month. It managed to combine history, innovation, and harmony, confirming Jonathan Anderson as one of the most influential creatives of his generation.
