escape to be
IN THIS ISSUE:
escape* to be
Escaping doesn’t always mean going away, forge ing. It can be a search for a new dimension. It can be a beginning, or experimenting a di erent self. It can mean breaking free of a cocoon to nally become that which you’ve always been. Forget or forge everything? is is the essence of escape.
Sometimes we wake with a desire to be someone else, di erent and elsewhere. We desire a new hypothesis for the future. In this issue, you’ll explore extraordinary stories by people who have turned escapes into strength and transformation. Vlatka Horvat cuts out references to the in nite that dissolve barriers and erase memories; John Waters renders void the con nes between tradition and destruction of tradition; Kensuke Koike overturns perceptions of the past… en there’s Simon Denny, a fan artist who has created a ag for the state of Liberland, born through the use of blockchain technologies and bitcoins. Indian photographer Sujatro Ghosh uses provocative shots to denounce the female condition in his country, where women are worth less than cows. Can the same be said of other cultures too? Recognition of women’s rights and their role in contemporary society, especially in places we think of as “evolved,” remains ambiguous and surprisingly critical. Already midway through the past century, major female artists denounced subordinate conditions and commodi cation of the female body, including all the problems connected with recognizing one’s own identity. Adrian Piper, a famous feminist artist who abandoned the US for Berlin, shares her archive with us. e great Carolee Schneemann, who won the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement at the 2017 Venice Biennale, gives an extraordinary interview detailing her militant artwork, which has always put the female body front and center in order to free it from rhetorical and patriarchal conditioning. Niki de Saint Phalle is drawn between the savage side of her female character and her bourgeois family upbringing.
Theere is no “genre” issue if society is uid and that which surrounds the sexes dissipates into a mutating body. Accepting one’s own corpus is beautiful, if it is worth. at’s the important thing: never lose sight
of value. Never sell yourself out. en body and soul can remain united, seeking perfection even when it lies outside the pre-established, uniform or usual. You’re a man, you’re a woman; genre doesn’t ma er. What’s important is knowing how to make your own choice. We can switch men’s and women’s clothing to become that which we desire in a given moment. Wearing a mask works too (check out the amazing piece by Charles Fréger, a photographer-anthropologist who wants to restore – through portraiture – identities and dignity to the protagonists of his works). en you’ll enjoy a search for memory in a place that is an ancient home that has nothing to do with spirits, yet mirrors the soul of generations. Or explore landscapes shot by Ma eo Procacci, immersed in an imaginary light, altering perceptions by inventing novel things. For Alessandra Mastronardi, a young Italian actress making a name for herself in the world, escape can be the choice to try new challenges and cultures, but also to return home, back to her familiar roots. e famous photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri generously opens his foundation to young people, revealing beauty through iconic images, exotic countries, divine creatures, interwoven with history.
The body doesn’t scare us anymore, even though we know that it continues to render us terribly mortal. Humans have tried to free themselves, remaining somehow alive, from their mortal remains (eir Mortal Remains is the title of V&A’s Pink Floyd Exhibition and book). e answer provided by Aldous Huxley and other theoreticians of escapism is another story. We’ll address that in upcoming issues, but let’s end here with a line that synthetizes their thinking:
I wanted to change the world. But I have found that the only thing one can be sure of changing is oneself.
Aldous Huxley, Point Counter Point
* – to get free from something, or to avoid something – something that helps you to forget about your usual life or problems – the act of successfully ge ing out of a place or a dangerous or bad situation – a loss that happens by accident – the key on a computer keyboard that allows you to leave a particular screen and return to the previous one or to interrupt a process
– CIAO, ALESSANDRA
With her intense gaze communicating beauty and character, Alessandra Mastronardi mixes traits of mediterranean charm – profound colours and glowing complexion – with the sophisticated glamour of an international star. e Neapolis pale e, maquillage SS 2018 from Chanel, is perfectly in line: eyes drawn with Stylo Yeux Waterproof N. 939, Nero Vulcano, and Mascara Dimension de Chanel N. 50, Nero Metallo and, on the eyelids, the warm tones of Les 9 Ombres A resco. On the lips, Rouge Allure Velvet N. 65, L’Aristocratica. On the skin, Les Beiges Teint belle mine naturelle N. 20 and a touch of Fard Joues Contraste N. 430, Foschia Rosa. PVC mini cape worn over tweed suit. All by CHANEL Photo Toni orimbert. Fashion Michela Guasco.
Make Up Simone Belli. Hair Domenica Ricciardi.
anks to Alessandra, Carina Mastronardi
– A NEW GENDER
Charme and appeal are individual qualities beyond gender, as the acolytes of the power of beauty know very well. So the blurred line dividing sexes, assuming it is still de nite, disintegrates with the most powerful mean of a raction: a scented signal. Boy Chanel, the new Eau de Parfum from Les Exclusif collection dedicated to Arthur (Boy) Capel – Gabrielle Chanel’s greatest love and alter ego – is the scented homage to the polymorphic nature of seduction. In its bouquet the more intense and masculine notes (sandal, heliotrope) do a li le magic: they enhance the gender sensuality according to the skin of who wears it. On the lips, Rouge Coco Lip Blush N. 420, Burning Berry; on the eyelids, Stylo Eye-liner Intensité Longue Tenue N. 10, Noir, Signature de Chanel. All by CHANEL Ru ed bodysuit DAVID KOMA
Photo Luis Monteiro. Fashion & Concept Sayuri Bloom. Make Up Caroline Torbahn. Hair Sharmaine Cox.
Model Xu Meen @ IMG. Beauty Editor Sandra Bardin
-In USA/WORLDWIDE it will be out late APRIL-