The innovation of the S/S ‘25 collections at London Fashion Week
Words CAROLINA BENJUMEA
The second stop in this Fashion Week parade is London. Its well-known design schools, as well as its youth culture, make it particularly interesting to encounter emerging talent. Its ability to push creative boundaries and set the tone for inventiveness and edginess, places it at the forefront of the industry. Not afraid to explore, London has produced some of the most talented and daring creators.
For this season, the expression of artistry was both subtle and extraordinary, with designers like JW Anderson, whose work is a constant exploration of techniques and innovation. For Spring-Summer ’25, dramatic creativity versus more toned-down collections opened the way to an amalgam of styles, suitable for all kinds of wearers.
Harris Reed delivered a collection of sculptural and surreal designs, upcycled from vintage fabrics. The dreamlike and ethereal creations seemed to have been taken out of a fairytale. For JW Anderson, the collection draws on his magical and experimental approach to design. Voluminous and deconstructed pieces walked alongside minimalist dresses. Architectural elements can be perceived in the construction of his garments, creating an exciting visual experience for the attendees.
On the other hand, flawlessly conceived commercial collections, which portray the old-fashioned London style, were also present. Tove stood out for its classic minimalism and elegance. Luxurious fabrics, simple cuts, and neutral colors delivered a practical yet stylish wardrobe. Burberry, as is customary, created a collection where simplicity made the statement, and where the house codes were given a modern twist. Cropped jackets, capri pants, and oversized pussy-bow blouses walked alongside big coats and bedazzled dresses. In contrast to the collection, the runway setup was grand. Custom-designed by Gary Hume, the installation was inspired by Hume’s work, ‘Bays,’ and consisted of large green water-resistant sheets with cutouts inspired by hospital doors.
Some designers focused on the celebration of the female body with hyper-feminine collections that exalted women and their existence. Bora Aksu, for instance, created fluid silhouettes inspired by a vintage look. Lace and ruffles were the center of the collection, crafting a romantic yet modern aesthetic. For Richard Quinn, it was a polished and glamorous look that caught his eye. Retro styles with a modern twist merged with voluminous pieces adorned with rosettes, bows and dramatic collars. As for Paul Costelloe, he imagined a wardrobe in full pastels, with feminine silhouettes and florals.
Other designers, such as Erdem, Patrick McDowell, and Simone Rocha, focused on the duality between feminine and masculine by mixing staples of the masculine wardrobe with signature feminine pieces, creating an eclectic and fun collection, far from traditional gender precepts.
