With the backdrop of Milan’s rich cultural heritage and vibrant urban landscape, June’s Menswear Fashion Week is once again approaching an epilogue: deep dive on SS25’s first-half best catwalks.
Martine Rose
In the lead-up to the Martine Rose show there was much anticipation about how the London-based designer would translate her idiosyncratic, underground-infused menswear to Milan for her inaugural appearance on the city’s fashion week schedule. Questions arose about whether she would adapt to Milan’s renowned sartorial sophistication.
The show took place in a repurposed industrial building, with the floor littered with Martine Rose flyers reminiscent of those found at 1990s raves. This setting provided the first hint that Rose had no intention of conforming. Models paraded and glided through the space, sporting prosthetic noses purposefully designed to look haphazard and wearing long, matted wigs that nearly touched the ground.
In a bold display of gender fluidity, men wore pencil skirts paired with fishnet stockings, or tailored trousers crafted to resemble chaps, complete with leather crotch panels—a playful reversal of traditional design expectations. For women, the protective padding of motorcycle jackets was ingeniously transformed into the bust of dresses, blending ruggedness with femininity.
Throughout the collection, Martine Rose’s signature elements were unmistakable: shrunken football shirts, distorted tracksuits, and zip-away denim, all making prominent appearances. These were complemented by obligatory nods to nightlife and its distinctive dress codes, reinforcing Rose’s connection to underground culture.
Emporio Armani
Horses running freely along the shore, fields of lavender painting the walls: the projections at Teatro Armani set the scene for an Emporio collection titled ‘Freedom in Nature’.
The atmosphere exuded adventure and abandon: shirts were plunging, paired with voluminous pants and sturdy boots—a nod to equestrianism—while finely tailored pieces echoed safari jackets and kimonos. A recurring theme was the focus on the waist, seen in belted utility jackets and leather loops that cinched the waist of the designer’s relaxed, lightweight blazers.
The show concluded with the fragrance of lavender as men in lederhosen strolled through the space, carrying baskets brimming with the springtime bloom. Nature, though somewhat subdued, provided a captivating finale, with models encircling Mr. Armani—this season accompanied by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani, overseeing the house’s menswear and womenswear collections. The customary ovation followed, heightened this year in anticipation of Mr. Armani’s upcoming 90th birthday next month.
Prada
‘Youth is the future… it is hope,’ – ‘We wanted to do something that would express youthful optimism because the times are so bad.’ Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons talk about ‘freedom, youthful optimism and energy’, after Prada show at revisited Fondazione Prada’s Deposito.
The silhouettes were dynamic, intentionally creased, distorted, shrunken, and exaggerated—evoking a sense of well-worn familiarity. Sleeves were abbreviated, giving the impression of clothing exchanged or worn over time. Shirts were skewed and wrapped around the body, reminiscent of the aftermath of a vibrant night out, while narrow trousers hung low on the waist and pooled at the ankles.
Other pieces challenged perception, inviting a second look: trompe l’oeil Breton T-shirts with distorted stripes, and low-slung leather “belts” seamlessly integrated into trousers. Oversized visor sunglasses adorned with images of raves, Roman statues, and American highways on their lenses, alongside prints by artist Bernard Buffet reminiscent of concert T-shirts, added a surreal, disorienting edge.
The duo emphasized their intuitive approach, following their instincts without overthinking. “Sometimes as you grow older, you tend to overanalyze and restrict yourself. When you’re young, you just go,” Simons remarked. They aimed to create garments infused with vitality and history. “These clothes exude spontaneity and optimism—they embody instinctive yet purposeful choices, representing freedom,” they concluded.
Dolce & Gabbana
Titled ‘Italian Beauty,’ Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s latest menswear collection marked a subtle departure from the sharp, minimalist lines of recent seasons. Inspired by the relaxed elegance of Italian summers and iconic figures such as the debonair Marcello Mastroianni, the duo introduced softer elements. Raffia, a quintessential feature of Italian decor, was prominently featured in airy summer jackets and oversized polo shirts. The tailoring, predominantly double-breasted with pleated trousers tapering towards the hem, paid homage to the 1950s aesthetic.
Embellishments and intricate details further animated the collection, including delicate red floral motifs adorning crisp white trousers and jackets.
Simon Cracker
Simon Cracker’s runway show is a cry of anger and disappointment towards a world where values seem to have disappeared. The SS25 collection emerges directly from “a matter of principle”, straight to the point.
“The matter of principle creates a short circuit in communication and interpersonal relationships. When this card is played, overriding common sense, we present our interlocutor with an empty vessel and create a communication “knot” that is difficult to unravel. Simon Cracker’s SS25 collection does not aim to be overtly political in its narrative, but rather feels compelled to metaphorically depict a state of affairs. Today, refraining from using any means, including fashion, to ignite critical thought would be deemed criminal.”
The Simon Cracker SS25 / Spring Summer 2025 collection is defined by four ‘edgy’ colors: alongside pure black, hues of synthetic blue, acid green, and violet expand upon the unconventional dye effects introduced last season. Additionally, the collection features collaborations with Australian (historic Italian tennis clothing brand in the past, now expanded into broader sportswear) and Dr Martens for footwear, personally reimagined with patches, pins, and vibrant colors by Simone Botte and Filippo Leone Maria Biraghi, Creative Directors of the brand.
