NYFW spring/summer 2025 has just come to an end, expectations were high and they were not disappointed, given the socio-political engagement that was savoured from the catwalks… and not only!
Words CAROLINA BENJUMEA
Fashion Month just kicked off, which means that for the following weeks, social media will be filled with stylish outfits, avant-garde fashion, celebrities, and glamour. As is customary, New York is the first to begin the festivities. This year, many conversations sparked around the decline of its relevance, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. New Yorkers put on their best pair of pumps and proved, once again, that their fashion is still very much alive.
This season’s trends reflected the eclecticism of the city and its vibrant contrasts. From Americana to demure and bold, the diversity of New York was felt in every show. Grace Ling’s sexy aesthetic combined fantastical and structural designs. Khaite presented a collection where dramatic, voluminous pieces made a statement, along with tailored pants, blazers, and coats. Yuhan Wang embraced feminine sportswear with a wardrobe that was eclectic, playful, and hyperfeminine, with lace as the common thread of the collection. And Toteme’s minimalism was refreshing, elegant, and perfectly portrayed New York’s refined woman.
The agitated political and social climate present in the country was also felt throughout the week, with political statements made in several shows. Many designers turned their attention to social issues and became activists for change. For instance, Willy Chavarria celebrated the legacy and voices of immigrants, honoring the Mexican-American community where he was raised. Prabal Gurung used his show to send an empowering message to women, centering it around the ideas of the future of society and matriarchy. In partnership with Tinder, Area created a collection with a strong message on women’s reproductive rights. The collection sought to promote and donate to the national abortion rights campaign, ‘Bans Off Our Bodies’. And PH5 called for action toward underrepresented endangered animals, with the statement: ‘Save the Ugly Animals’.
The quintessential New Yorkers, the holy grail of New York Fashion Week—Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, and Michael Kors—were also present with collections faithful to their names. Carolina Herrera’s polka dots and florals were combined with her signature yellow and red, delivering a romantic and flawlessly constructed collection. Tommy Hilfiger’s collection sailed away on the Staten Island Ferry MV John F. Kennedy. His preppy influences were mixed with laid-back and oversized pieces, something unexpected from the brand. The Michael Kors collection exuded sexiness and class, with body-hugging pieces walking down the runway alongside classic looks.
This year’s overseas invitees included Alaïa, with a show at the Guggenheim Museum. The collection represented American practicality and effortless aesthetics, featuring looks that were both classic and structural. Bold and geometric pieces were also present, delivering edginess and creativity. Off-White’s show was a representation of America and Africa, emphasizing the links that tie them. An athletic inspiration was visible throughout the show, with pieces that were as practical as they were aesthetic. Ronald Van Der Kemp’s all-Americana show was fun and sexy, with a diverse choice of fabrics, colors, and prints. The American flag looks stood out among the others.
Armani, on the other hand, will also present his Spring-Summer collection in New York, but at his own pace. As Giorgio Armani prepares to turn 90, his Maison is gearing up for a dazzling jubilee on October 17. The ‘One Night Only’ event will showcase the Spring-Summer ’25 collection and also serve as an opportunity to unveil the new Armani building on Madison Avenue. The concept behind this highly anticipated event has already been introduced in cities such as London, Tokyo, Beijing, Rome, Paris, Dubai, and Venice.
