LET’s FORGeT ABOuT BORiNG DULL cOLORS, NeXT SUMmER MEN wILL WeAR PInK
Text by: Annarosa Laureti
From Milan Fashion Week we finally noticed how much men love accessories and details. Now that Menswear season has closed, after the last Fashion Week taking place in Paris, we can come to a final conclusion: next summer men will definitely compete with women over style.
Parisian catwalks were an explosion of pastel colors and, above all, of pink, declined in all its shades, from the brighter to the sugarplum hue. But mind you, this doesn’t mean guys are less virile than before; actually what we saw in Paris is the very proof that men can be elegant and sexy also wearing the feminine color par excellence.
Recollecting his 70s trips in Downtown New York, Paul Smith proposed a fresh, and super cool, version of the damn artist, whose style, despite a first scruffy impression, is totally elegant and well-finished in details. Pop Art references can be read on the color palette choice as well as on the floral screen print reproduced on shirts. Total pink suits can’t scratch at all that beloved darker side of Paul Smith’s intellectuals and oversize shapes. Long jackets and high-waisted trousers also contribute to intensify his vintage attitude making him more and more mysterious and seductive.
Virgil Abloh then freed his tender and romantic soul creating for Louis Vuitton a blooming Spring Summer 2020 Collection. Floral crowns and collars, handbags like as flowerbeds are the new codes of a nature-lover man who proudly shows his passion by wearing shirts, jackets and pants embellished with printed and embroidered blossoms and medicinal herbs. The favorite tones of LV man are delicate and strong at the same time: cold hues of iced grey and lilac refer to his introspective and shy attitude, while the bright nuances of fuchsia, blue and flashy yellow and orange mark the inner power to stand out from the others.
The provocative Thom Browne doesn’t hesitate to bring to the catwalk bizarre and brilliant looks. For the next Spring Summer season Thom Browne man will not only wear garments showing a palette exclusively made up of pastel tones, but will be also allowed to wear underwear looking like short pants and skirts, from the traditional kilt to the midi-size one, till the tutu for those more extravagant. Of course, both rigorously made in seersucker and matched with white shirt and tie.
Loewe hippies gang instead wear oversized shapes, metal disc pendant and strips. Kimonos, kaftans, total suede looks and dungarees bring us back to the 70s.
Among a classical springy color palette, pink and lilac tones spread out as it happened in the Issey Miyake fashion show, enlightened by bright shades of fuchsia, blue and yellow. For the Spring Summer 2020 Collection the brand placed with the iconic pleats we find on kimonos, super light pants and T-shirts as well. Instead of stripes here we have colorful chessboard motifs and geometrical patterns.
Dior man doesn’t loose his elegance even wearing shorts pants and clothes with more sporty shapes. The suit, traditionally proposed in 50 shades of grey, walks down the catwalk together with white shirts and T-shirts embellished with brush strokes of orange and yellow. The prints over the coveralls remind us a bucolic portrayal as well as the famous Portuguese azulejos; while maison logo shyly appears on bombers, short pants and on the Saddle bum bag. Dior man doesn’t dare with total pink looks but he neither quits showing at least one pink detail, which can be a simply tie, a cap, or a more striking coat.
Then, pink is the undisputed king of the Jacquemus fashion show… even in the catwalk’s environment, where a never-ending fuchsia carpet lays down a lavender field in Valensole, Provence. More than a simply runway show, the event celebrated yesterday the first ten years of the French brand as well as the second of the menswear line. Showing both women and men looks with a pastel color spectrum – made of heart hues of orange yellow and brown as well as sea blue shades – sexy mini dresses, skirts and pants, alternate teared long dresses and oversized shirts and jackets. Jacquemus man has a sporty and adventurous soul mixed up with a casual and super cool attitude. To end his romantic side is exalted by several patterns of macro daisies, cardoons, sunflowers and South French landscapes.
Cover: Paul Smith Spring Summer 2020 Collection, Courtesy of Paul Smith