PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK SS2021 – AN INSIGHT ON THE ITALIAN EXCELLENCE
Text by Diletta Accorroni
On the occasion of the Paris Haute Couture SS21, started on January 25th and just come to an end, Italian fashion designers once again confirmed to be second to none, especially when it comes to beautifully made couture art pieces. As for the latest editions, physical shows have interchanged with superb digital events and behind-closed-doors presentations, where Italian Fashion Houses sticked out having the chance to show their wonderful creations.
Giambattista Valli, presenting his collection on the very first date through a fashion film, leads everybody into a dreamy scenario. The models look like party girls from the past, wearing voluminous – yet light as feathers – dresses and taffeta gowns. Their hairstyles are not something that stays quiet, with volumes inspired by pictures from the 60s and muses such as the iconic Benedetta Barzini and Marisa Berenson. Heads are beautifully decorated with ribbons and flowers, with a clear recall to elements taken from the flamenco tradition (an echo which is also present in the ruffled skirts, worn by the models).
Coming to the Armani Privè collection, it was filmed right in the Milanese fashion district, precisely at Palazzo Orsini, Via Borgonuovo. This is the place that also hosts Giorgio Armani’s couture ateliers and salons. With “In omaggio a Milano” (the title of the collection) we see how Giorgio Armani is paying tribute to the capital of Lombardy, heart of the Made in Italy. Elegance, sobriety and beauty are the core of the collection, as in the best Armani’s tradition, but this time there is also a will to spread a green message. A 150mts cloud, made out of tulle, represents the final act of the video. It represents a “cortex dress”, which should be a reminder for all those moments in which we forget to respect Mother Nature. In this period, more than ever before, we all should have reconsidered its primary importance, because “If we no longer have an Earth, a planet, not even money will be useful for anything”, quoting King Giorgio.
Pierpaolo Piccioli has instead chosen Rome for the Valentino’s Haute Couture fashion show. The soundtrack is composed by Robert Del Naja (Massive Attack) and the show takes place at Sala Grande, in the heart of Palazzo Colonna. The models, as kind of post-human creatures, come from another dimension and a different planet; it is not by chance that the show is named “Code Temporal”. The collection is in between digital and human, and of course fluid, totally avoiding gender-stigmas limits. Accessories are protagonists, and the towering platforms will definitely be a thing for the next season.
Talking about Rome, the reference to Fendi come as spontaneous. The 27th of January represents the Kim Jones’s debut as Artistic Director of womenswear. The title of the show is “Bloomsbury to Borghese” and perfectly represents the mix between the Roman roots of the Fendi family and those of Jones’ from Hammersmith. The Italian family constellation, so dear to the Artistic Director of accessories and menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi, turns now into that of a big Brit cast, consisting in great superstars, such as Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Demi Moore, in which women always the beating heart.