“Curiously, perhaps, it is the inherent disorderliness of desire and subjectivity that makes both Lacanian psychoanalysis and avant-garde art so remarkably radical, and renders them both ideal for a negotiation of the bizarre creations of couture.”
Alison Bancroft
It is more interesting to interpret the new couture today as a conceptual gesture. Like a Marcel Duchamp ready-made.
Is it possible to celebrate haute couture while also offering a critical reading of it? These are the questions that Maria Grazia Chiuri raises in this autumn-winter 2018-2019 haute couture collection…
The original models have to be sketched by the designer herself or by her closest partners in full skills. The fashion atelier are thoughtful places. She wants to go back to the origins when designing a coat meant to create a symbol of rare piece. Batwing sleeves for the Bar Suits, dresses that are pure form of art; pale brown, green rose and orange colors contrast with nude tones creating a delicate, elegant and feminine notes.
Couture becomes akin to rebellion, a kind of ideological “guerrilla”. Where the real transgression is to go back to the origin.
