For the Fall/Winter Burberry show in London, Riccardo Tisci tells the story of the two brand’s clouds clashing in a real fashion storm
A storm occurs when a low pressure center is created, while a high pressure system surrounds it. This combination of opposing forces can cause the formation of storm clouds. Then, if very strong wind, snow, rain and hail cover the landscape, we are facing the arrival of a tempest.
These are the weather forecasts for the 2019-2020 Burberry’s cold season. And, as British people love to say, it’s anything but a storm in a teacup… What the new creative director, Riccardo Tisci, indeed shows us is the dramatic, necessary, astonishing brand’s climate change. He brought his artistic language and inspirations – launched with the debut show in September – to an evolution, always surrounding the public with the vibrant atmosphere of diversity and inclusiveness.
Creating his natural-fashion landscape within the tanks of the Tate Modern in London, he enacts two extremely different ambients. One rigorous and sober, by placing wooden seats over the soft-lightened runway, and the other more rebellious, brutal, in sharp contrast with the previous one, by hosting over 100 young people who climbed the walls as a symbol of the eager for freedom.
“I thought a lot about England as a country of contrasts, from structured to rebel and free, and I wanted to celebrate the way these elements coexist. My first season in Burberry focused on developing my brand alphabet, and on identifying new letters and codes. Now, I’m starting to put these letters together to start writing my story here, to shape the first chapter of Burberry’s new era.” – Tisci said.
On this theatre of opposing forces, staging a variegated casting as well – including Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natalia Vodianova, Fran Summers, Anok Yai, Mariacarla Boscono, Matteo Ferri, Tashi Jay Kwayie – the Girl, the Boy, the Lady and the Gentleman are still the collection’s main characters. They take the runway exhibiting the two great titans of today’s fashion: classic elegance and streetwear young glam. The Girl shows shearling and faux fur coats, corset top without shoulders, tailored trousers with double waist and petticoat dresses with silk details combined with sneakers with rubber over-soles.
The Boy wears paneled trench, quilt duffle coat, shearling parka and quilt duvets. Vintage check in bold patchworks with animal print and ribbon details, and sweatpants revisited with soft leather.
While for the Lady, we seen deconstructed trench coats, car coats, ponchos with wool and cashmere draping. Clean cut tailoring, dresses with accentuated waist, pleated skirts and printed shirts. Decolleté and boots with fringes and hand-applied crystals.
And finally the Gentleman with striped wool montgomery, quilted vest over sartorial coats. English-cut dresses, pleated trousers, knitwear with a boat neck and silk-jersey blend shirts. Lace-up shoes with rubber tip and Chelsea boots.
The soundtrack exclusively composed by M.I.A., waving from 90s to contemporary rhythms, traces the beat of this high-and-low style pressure clashes.
“M.I.A is a character that embodies the raw creativity and individuality that reside in the heart of England – she is a real punk in every sense. We both come from other parts of the world, but we are proud to call London “our home” and we found ourselves sharing the same need to express ourselves without limits.” – Tisci said