ThE FuTuRe of PaRiS: EmErGiNg DeSiGnErS tO WaTcH

Paris Fashion Week has Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Louis Vuitton, Alaïa, Balmain, Saint Laurent, and many other designers and brands that have stood the test of time while leading the trends of many generations. Those who are at the forefront of the industry today were once young designers with big dreams, big ideas, and a unique vision that only a few could understand. In today’s fashion landscape, when the industry is driven by power and showbusiness, it is hard to stand out as a young designer among the big marketing machines behind some of these historic brands. However, young designers are emerging with big dreams, big talent, and even bigger ideas. Most importantly, they are being mentored by the industry’s giants and are receiving first-hand access and training from them.
So, who will lead the Paris Fashion Week calendar of the future? We take a look at some of the most praised emerging talents of the season.

Pressiat

Launched in 2021 by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, the provocative brand has appealed not only to fashionistas seeking audacious and bold fashion but also to a handful of celebrities such as Julia Fox, Bad Bunny, Rita Ora, and more. Its genderless fashion is reminiscent of nightlife, the pleasures found in it, and the people who enjoy it. The designs aim to showcase the wearer’s sexuality while still maintaining a sense of style. Having worked alongside John Galliano at Maison Margiela, Vincent mastered the art of craftsmanship, which is highly evident in his creations.
For the Spring/Summer ’25 collection, Pressiat introduced a line called  Burning Era, where the use of textures took center stage, and construction was impeccable. Sensual, feminine pieces merged with strong, masculine looks. Volume was incorporated into a few designs, showcasing his mastery in construction. With this collection, the brand has reached a new level of expertise, not only in setting trends but also in establishing its own distinct style.

Luis de Javier

Luis de Javier, a Spanish designer and protégé of Riccardo Tisci, has made a grand entrance with his shows. First, it was London, then New York, followed by Los Angeles, and now Paris—the final bastion to conquer. His eponymous brand is unapologetically sensual, with designs reminiscent of the porn-chic  era that dominated the 2000s. He is bold and audacious in his creations, with his brand evoking the edginess and disobedience of early Y2K fashion. His designs have already been worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Rosalía, and Cardi B. For his latest collection, he presented an amalgam of aesthetics and inspirations, from his Spanish roots to the couturiers who came before him. Conical bras, pointed shoulders, draped dresses, and torero-inspired jackets were key elements of the collection. Visible lingerie displayed an elegant seduction, while lace, not in a romantic or innocent way, but in a sensual and provocative manner, was central to all the looks.

Weinsanto

Victor Weinsanto launched his brand in 2020 after studying at Atelier Chardon Savard in Paris and two years at Jean Paul Gaultier. His designs blend the performing arts with eclectic constructions, resulting in theatrical collections where creativity and movement are central. His presentations are reminiscent of cabaret shows, bringing together spectacle, savoir-faire, and craftsmanship. For Spring-Summer ’25, his signature silhouettes were given a dramatic and camp twist, while maintaining the sexiness and femininity his designs are known for. Corset dresses and hyper miniskirts were followed by pantsuits adorned with embellishments, lace pieces, and psychedelic prints. An XXL headpiece showcased his love for dramatic, statement pieces. The collection stayed true to his vibrant roots, his original inspiration from Art Nouveau, and his love for cabaret, while presenting a more mature evolution of his style.

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

The Belgian designer launched her brand in 2023 after working at Balenciaga. One of the eight finalists for the LVMH Prize in 2024, her clothes are timeless yet exhibit a strong artistic nature. She plays with volumes and proportions, crafting a wardrobe that is both sophisticated and modern. Her approach to fashion is innovative, using playful forms to create conceptual pieces and transforming them into wearable attires. For this season, the young designer decided to focus her attention on a simple yet powerful garment: the T-shirt. She deconstructed and reconstructed it at will, creating several interpretations of this timeless basic. One of the strongest aspects of her collection is the balance between voluminous, avant-garde pieces and tailored, well-constructed garments, giving her looks a contemporary appeal.

Julie Kegels

After rich experiences in Meryll Rogge and Alaïa, Julie Kegels was one of the latest additions to the official Fashion Week calendar. Freshly added this Spring-Summer season, the Belgian creator introduced a visually strong collection with playful summer prints inspired by Los Angeles beach scene and Parisian elegance. Silhouettes reminiscent of the 60’s were given a modern twist, while classic pieces, such as pencil skirts, were printed with fun motifs. The collection was feminine and sensual, with some boyish accents. It was an amalgam of shapes and constructions that denoted the contrasting styles of LA and Paris. This first collection was proof of the designer’s creative strength and her ability to transform inspirations into tangible ideas.