In her first show outside of Paris, Marine Serre continued her journey into menswear, while still honoring everything that made her famous.

At the Fortezza da Basso, the usual attendees of Pitti followed a similar path of sartorial anarchy. Beyond the abundant classic suits, there was a noticeable flair for pairing tailored pieces and refined accessories with military uniforms, vintage workwear, and sturdy canvas bags with decades of history. The effect, although not new, was undoubtedly pleasing. Numerous scarves, denim jackets, knit polos, and a nod to 1950s America were seen in sailor caps, naval uniforms, and striped tops. The famous “peacocks” of Pitti, often resembling time travelers from the 1920s, opted this year for greater informality and less affectation. This change is probably for the better.