In her first show outside of Paris, Marine Serre continued her journey into menswear, while still honoring everything that made her famous.
At the Fortezza da Basso, the usual attendees of Pitti followed a similar path of sartorial anarchy. Beyond the abundant classic suits, there was a noticeable flair for pairing tailored pieces and refined accessories with military uniforms, vintage workwear, and sturdy canvas bags with decades of history. The effect, although not new, was undoubtedly pleasing. Numerous scarves, denim jackets, knit polos, and a nod to 1950s America were seen in sailor caps, naval uniforms, and striped tops. The famous “peacocks” of Pitti, often resembling time travelers from the 1920s, opted this year for greater informality and less affectation. This change is probably for the better.
Undoubtedly, the show held at Villa di Maiano, on the hills of Fiesole (a location previously used by great international film directors, from James Ivory to Franco Zeffirelli), had a unique atmosphere, enhanced by the beautiful landscape and the golden light of the sunset, quite different from the blinding sun that shone in the morning at the Fortezza da Basso. Serre presented a series of her classic silhouettes, but this time with a light touch of eco-futurism.
For “Sempre Legati,” the young french designer chose an approach to diversity that was evident even in the choice of the cast for the show: a heterogeneous mix of ages and skin tones, with a runway enriched by personalities from 25 different nations. Sustainability remained central in Serre’s men’s debut. The collection is the result of a skillful hybridization between tailored suits and 80s sportswear, luxury and functionality, a synonym that sustainability and innovation can coexist.
Among the most interesting looks were outfits created from backpacks and a series of glossy leather pieces adorned with crescent moons, presented both in monochromatic ensembles (the most notable being cognac-colored) and in bolder combinations with glossy leather trousers and blue shirts. Another standout element was the outerwear, especially a tartan wool jacket without lapels, with leather trims and a patchwork design at the bottom.
Highlight of the whole event, a relevant statement of unity and peace reiterated at the end of the show with the last eight looks, characterized by a pure white and poetically assembled using sheets, pillowcases, tablecloths, and doilies.
