As Paris Fashion Week approaches, we look back at its most defining moments of this century. From incredible settings to breathtaking creations
Words CAROLINA BENJUMEA
Paris holds a special place in fashion history for its couturiers, its savoir-faire, and for the memorable moments it has given us during its many shows. Runway shows are fleeting moments in which the brand can showcase all its expertise, and designers can demonstrate their talent. It was in 1947 when Christian Dior introduced the New Look with his show in Paris—this moment became a turning point in fashion history. Coco Chanel’s shows on Rue Cambon, with its mirrored staircase, created an entire mythology around the brand, which is still felt today. Fashion shows have served to create a myth around the brand and its creator, immersing us in a unique universe conveyed by the label. Over time, runway shows became spectacles to garner media attention, testing the creativity and the resources of entire teams.
We reviewed some of the most memorable moments in Paris Fashion Week this century.
Mugler Fall-Winter 1997 Haute Couture – Les Insectes
Thierry Mugler’s edginess shook up the fashion industry in the ’80s and ’90s. By the end of the 20th century, his unapologetic and bold approach to design had set him apart from other Parisian Maisons. For the Spring/Summer 1997 Haute Couture show, Mugler introduced his highly acclaimed Les Insectes collection. Presented at Le Ritz, the avant-garde show was a testament to the infinite creativity and construction prowess of the couturier. The fantastic and theatrical looks were inspired by the novel Metamorphosis by Franz Kafka and the film The Fly by David Cronenberg, and featured ant suits, the iconic bug-eyeglasses, cocoon capes, and insect-shaped corsets. However, it was when the Les Chimères dress made its entrance that the crowd stood still. The masterpiece represented a mythological creature and was one of the most expensive Haute Couture creations ever made. Its iridescent color, snake scales, horsehair, and headdress make this dress as exceptional as it is indescribable.
Dior by John Galliano Fall-Winter 2004 Haute Couture
It was grand! It was opulent! It was Galliano at Dior! Galliano’s tenure at the Maison was nothing short of spectacular, but this show takes the crown for its magnificent costumes and dramatic ambiance. The Fall-Winter 2004 Haute Couture extravaganza was inspired by Austro-Hungarian princesses and Russian aristocracy. Corseted gowns in hourglass and trumpet silhouettes, wide skirts, and exquisite fabrics walked down the runway with dramatic flair and a theatricality that complemented each look. Chunky jewelry and big hair were a perfect match for the draped constructions and the rich embroidery in every piece. More than a runway show, this was a spectacle engraved in fashion history.
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring-Summer 2007 Haute Couture
Known as “l’enfant terrible”, Jean Paul Gaultier has transformed the fashion industry with his unique approach to diversity, openness to all kinds of beauty—well ahead of his time—as well as his visionary style and flawless craftsmanship. For Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007, Gaultier created a juxtaposition of Catholicism and couture with a provocative runway show. The collection explored fashion as a doctrine, much like religion, and each design was proof of that. The stained-glass detailing, the lace, the golden accents, the embroideries, the tulle, the sequins, and the ornate halos appeared on the runway almost as a spiritual experience, showcasing Gaultier’s masterful approach to design. His wit and provocative nature turned this show into an almost sinful experience.
Chanel Fall-Winter 2017 Ready-to-Wear
During Karl Lagerfeld’s reign at Chanel, the designer turned his shows into enormous displays of wealth and power, transforming the Grand Palais into different universes. For Fall-Winter 2017, the Maison recreated a launch center, placing a 35-meter-high rocket ship in the middle. After smoke and fireworks appeared beneath the rocket, the massive structure lifted off at the end of the show, rising a few meters above the ground. This show, more than just clothing, portrayed fashion as a powerful and influential industry, with Chanel as one of its main players.
Coperni Spring-Summer 2023 Ready-to-Wear
This new decade has left many iconic moments; however, the Coperni Spring-Summer 2023 show was one for the books. What first seemed like a typical runway with beautifully craftedclothes turned into a futuristic spectacle. As the last models walked the runway, an almost nude Bella Hadid appeared in the center. Two men began spraying what initially looked like white paint on her, creating a stunning dress silhouette. Once finished, they cut the excess material, transforming it into a custom-made, off-the-shoulder dress, leaving the crowd in awe. Created by Fabrican Ltd., this technique involves a spray on fabric that, when applied, dries to form a tangible shape. The show sparked many conversations about the role of technology in the future of fashion. An instant sensation, the moment went viral and solidified the brand as a must see during Fashion Week.
