The Versace Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show at Milan Fashion Week was a nostalgic yet vibrant celebration of the brand’s past, drawing inspiration from the Spring 1997 Versus collection
Words MATTIA MARCASSA BARBIERI
Set against the historic backdrop of Milan’s Sforzesco Castle, the collection featured a playful blend of psychedelic prints and retro 1970s hues like pale yellow and lavender. The designs ranged from zigzag knits to floral skirts and sheer dresses, paired with bold accessories, such as acetate clutches inspired by Versace’s iconic Bright Crystal perfume bottle. Versus, which was Donatella’s project while her brother Gianni helmed the main line, reflected the carefree spirit of the ’90s, a time she described as full of “freedom, happiness, and casual fashion choices.” For the SS25 collection, Donatella revisited the vibrant energy of that era, recreating some of the bold prints and patterns from the 1997 show.
Although Versace has previously delved into its history, especially after Gianni Versace’s 2017 death anniversary, this collection felt decidedly young. With its baby pastel slip dresses, cardigans, denim, and short-shorts, it leaned more toward whimsical sweetness than overt sexiness. Lighthearted touches such as champagne stem heels and perfume bottles contributed to the collection’s appeal. However, there was a sophisticated use of color that wasn’t there in the Versus original series, like when a woman wore a copper tank with a lilac skirt and a male wore a caramel camp shirt with lavender pants. A delicate yellow and white leather jacket paired with violet leather leggings was another standout piece. The collection also brought forward Western influences, with brown leather vests and suede jackets, and a modern, carefree spirit. Donatella Versace infused the show with youthful energy, nodding to her archival designs while introducing fresh, eclectic looks suited for today. Despite some polarized opinions about its direction, the show stood out as a joyous and colorful counterpoint to the typically serious Milan Fashion Week.
Versace’s SS25 collection successfully combined nostalgia and innovation, honoring the possibilities of contemporary technology to reinvent the brand’s recognizable style while preserving the spirit of the past.
