Threads of Light and Memory: Gucci SS 2025 and Chromatic Alchemy at the Triennale di Milano
Words DOMENICO COSTANTINI
In Gucci’s Casual Grandeur fashion show for Spring Summer 2025, time becomes a fluid substance, crystallized in a chromatic corridor that dissolves white into the intensity of Rosso Ancora, like a sunset extending beyond the boundaries of the moment. There is no linear sequence; instead, there are fragments of suspended time, rooms inviting you to experience a unique, unrepeatable moment—a dialogue between memory and the present, between the intimate and the universal. Each space of the Triennale transforms into a stage, not just for fashion, but for an experience that transcends the material and ventures into the realms of thought.
The relationship between Gucci and the Triennale di Milano is not merely a collaboration, but an organic fusion of cultural identities, a continual interplay between art, design, architecture, and fashion. Gucci does not just occupy the spaces of the Triennale; it transforms, recodes, and experiences them as if they were part of its heritage. After celebrating its essence with the men’s fashion show, Sabato De Sarno now creates a long corridor of colors and meanings. This is not just a runway, but rather a conceptual symphony in which each hue tells a unique experience, as if the walls of the Triennale breathe to the rhythm of a new shared legacy, founded on open and inclusive dialogue.
The silhouettes of the ’60s emerge as shadows of a past that regenerates: structured jackets and A-line skirts open pathways to the elsewhere, while pants cut for sneakers challenge gender boundaries, merging archetypes with an irreverence that marks Gucci’s new code. Tailoring dominates but it is never static; it is always whispered yet never fully declared, like lingerie hidden beneath delicate lace and slightly ajar coats, evoking an intimacy that is glimpsed without ever fully exposing itself.
Bamboo, the iconic symbol of the Maison, reappears as a totem of the past that renews itself, becoming a material and plastic language: it bends, twists, and transforms into bags and jewelry that are not mere accessories, but silent dialogues between tradition and innovation. The world of bamboo traverses the runway like an invisible thread uniting time, echoing in the sinuous forms of the Gucci 73 and Gucci Go bags, which glide effortlessly through hands as if they were projections of an evolving self.
Finally, the Gucci Flora scarf, tied around the head, becomes a symbol of metamorphosis. From an iconic creation designed by Vittorio Accornero de Testa, it disassembles into a chromatic play that follows the collection’s palette, as if art itself were called to reinvent itself in dialogue with the present.
Saturday De Sarno invites us to pause and live the moment. Still, it is a paradoxical invitation: within that stillness lies the continuous movement of a legacy being recreated, exploring its obsessions—from tailoring to lingerie, from leather to the ’60s—and transforming them into a new language. Every step on that runway, amidst the rooms of the Triennale, becomes a reflection of casual grandeur, on how nonchalance can transform into power, and how the everyday can be elevated to a total sensory experience.
