Missoni: A New Era of Innovation and Art in the Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
Words MATTIA MARCASSA
Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, under the creative direction of Filippo Grazioli, made a bold statement during Milan Fashion Week, reinterpreting the iconic zigzag motif with an avant-garde approach. This collection represents a fusion of tradition and innovation, pushing the creative boundaries of the brand.
The zigzag motif, a symbol of strong identity, is transformed into a celebration of three-dimensionality. The show took place in a geometric space characterized by yellow, blue, white, and black cubes, with black lines drawn on the floor that created an uncluttered yet dynamic environment, perfectly in tune with Missoni’s modernist aesthetic. Inspiration from American artist Ruth Asawa is translated into sculptural knits that give life to kinetic pieces, such as tubular tops, minidresses, and leggings, all imbued with artistic and almost rebellious energy. Grazioli’s color palette is particularly incisive, combining Missoni’s characteristic knits with vivid primary colors that recall the works of Piet Mondrian. Standouts include fringed jacquard shift dresses, sequined tunics, and ribbon-tied dresses, each pushing the boundaries of design while maintaining an inherent sophistication.
Accessories add a sculptural dimension to outfits, a triptych of rigid circles circling the torso, highlighting the contrast between rigidity and softness. Three-dimensionality reaches its peak in long pieces where fabrics overlap in layers that float around Chaos and Order, Grazioli’s work is a “simplification” that revitalizes familiar forms while signaling a fresh and experimental direction for the brand.
