London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025/26 has once again proven that the city’s fashion scene is a crucible of innovation and resilience. Despite economic challenges and the overshadowing presence of Paris and Milan, London continues to assert its unique voice in the fashion world
words MATTIA MARCASSA BARBIERI
Richard Quinn: A Winter’s Dream
Richard Quinn transported audiences to an enchanting winter wonderland, with a runway transformed into a snow-laden street adorned with frosted lampposts. His collection celebrated opulence and glamour, featuring evening gowns with dramatic silhouettes crafted from lace, tulle, and velvet. Embellishments like bows, sequins, and intricate embroidery paid homage to haute couture traditions.
Bora Aksu: Homage to Empress Sissi
Drawing inspiration from Empress Elisabeth of Austria, known as Sissi, Bora Aksu’s collection was a delicate tribute to imperial elegance. The runway showcased intricate white lace dresses, structured jackets, and accessories reminiscent of 19th-century equestrian attire, blending historical references with contemporary design.
Dilara Findikoglu: Venus from Chaos
Marking a highly anticipated return, Dilara Findikoglu presented “Venus from Chaos” at Elektrowerkz, one of London’s most iconic underground venues. The collection was a bold statement on female liberation, featuring gothic-inspired ensembles with feathers, latex, and bondage elements. A notable highlight was her collaboration with Converse, introducing avant-garde sneakers that complemented the rebellious aesthetic.
Roksanda: Sculptural Elegance
Celebrating her brand’s 20th anniversary, Roksanda Ilinčić drew inspiration from the late British sculptor Phyllida Barlow. The collection featured sculptural gowns crafted from recycled materials, reflecting Barlow’s unconventional art forms. Vibrant colors and exaggerated details created a dramatic yet precarious aesthetic, embodying the essence of Barlow’s work.
Emilia Wickstead: Hitchcockian Heroine
Emilia Wickstead’s collection paid homage to the iconic style of Tippi Hedren in Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” Modernized tailored suits with conical bras and vibrant hues brought a contemporary twist to classic 1960s silhouettes, capturing the suspenseful elegance of Hitchcock’s muse.
Simone Rocha: Romantic Rebellion
Simone Rocha explored the dichotomy of romance and rebellion, presenting a collection that juxtaposed delicate pastels and bows with oversized leather jackets and bold chain jewelry. The inclusion of fabric animals, such as hares and tortoises, symbolized themes of speed and introspection, adding a whimsical touch to the runway.
Erdem: Artistic Reverie
Erdem Moralıoğlu found inspiration in the portraits of artist Kaye Donachie, resulting in a collection that exuded poetic elegance. Soft-hued prints adorned feminine silhouettes, while floral embroidery and fringed accessories added depth and texture. The British Museum served as a fitting backdrop, enhancing the collection’s artistic narrative.
Emerging Talents: The Future of London Fashion
London’s fashion scene thrives on nurturing new talent. Designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer stood out with inclusive, genderless designs that challenge traditional norms. Jawara Alleyne impressed with architectural inspirations and distinctive silhouettes, while Steven Stokey Daley continued to redefine modern menswear with his unique approach.
Despite financial constraints and a smaller international presence compared to Paris and Milan, London Fashion Week remains a vital platform for creativity and diversity. Designers emphasized the importance of live shows for inspiration and industry support, highlighting the city’s unwavering commitment to fostering innovation in fashion. In conclusion, London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025/26 showcased a harmonious blend of established designers and emerging talents, each contributing to the city’s dynamic and resilient fashion landscape.
