Best FroM LoNDon FaShIOn Week FaLl-WiNTer 2024 pt. 2

Second and final round-up of what happened during the Fall-Winter 2024/25 London Fashion Week

 

Paolo Carzana

In a triumphant return to London Fashion Week, Paolo Carzana captivated audiences with his latest Fall/Winter 2024 collection, aptly named “Melanchronic Mountain,” just one year after his debut show. The Welsh-born designer, now firmly entrenched in the London fashion scene, once again showcased his knack for crafting captivating narratives that left attendees spellbound. By expanding his repertoire of natural dyes and seamlessly integrating both 2D and 3D design elements, Carzana not only maintains his reputation for impeccable craftsmanship but also underscores his unwavering dedication to sustainability. This holistic approach strikes a chord with the conscientious values and fanciful imaginations of his Gen-Z audience, while also playing a vital role in mitigating the fashion industry’s environmental footprint. The “Melanchronic Mountain” collection serves as a testament to Carzana’s ability to marry artistry with eco-conscious innovation, offering a glimpse into a future where fashion and sustainability seamlessly coexist. As the industry continues to grapple with the challenges of climate change and resource depletion, Carzana stands as a beacon of hope, proving that style and sustainability are not mutually exclusive.

Holzweiler

Holzweiler, the Scandinavian brand that made waves with its debut runway show last season, has returned to London Fashion Week with its sophomore Fall/Winter 2024 collection titled “Mycelia.” Unlike its previous outdoor showcase, the Norwegian fashion house opted for an indoor venue at the Tate Britain for its latest presentation. In a pre-show announcement on Instagram, Holzweiler revealed its inspiration drawn from Anya Gallaccio’s artwork, “Preserve Beauty,” displayed at the Tate Britain—a meditation on the cyclical nature of life in the natural world. The collection’s title references the intricate structure of fungus responsible for nutrient distribution within the fungal body—a metaphor for growth and interconnectedness evident throughout the FW24 showcase. Oversized white knit jackets with elongated sleeves dominated the runway, accompanied by intricately patterned sweaters and multi-colored muffler scarves, hand-knitted and adorned with thread-like extensions reminiscent of mycelia. Nature served as a primary muse, reflected in earthy tones like dirt brown and daisy-yellow, evoking the brand’s Norwegian roots and a connection to the natural world. With two successful runway shows under its belt, Holzweiler continues to evolve and expand its horizons, much like the mycelial networks it draws inspiration from, solidifying its status as a brand poised for global recognition.

Sinéad Gorey

Sinead Gorey takes a nostalgic journey back to the halls of high school for her AW24 collection, capturing the essence of British teenagehood with a retrospective lens. Drawing inspiration from her own adolescent years, Gorey delves into the unique blend of styles and attitudes that defined that formative period spent navigating the corridors, bus stops, and local haunts. However, it’s the rebellion against uniform constraints that truly sets Gorey’s collection apart. Rather than conforming to traditional dress codes or succumbing to school rivalries, her protagonist boldly mixes and matches tartan patterns to create patchworked bodices and down-filled skirts with a rebellious edge. This is not the attire of a teacher’s pet but rather a confident student who defies the status quo. Elsewhere, Gorey’s designs embrace a DIY ethos, with ties repurposed as stylish accessories and prep-school blazers adorned with punk-inspired badges. The collection exudes a sense of youthful experimentation, with pleated skirts and customised garments reflecting the journey of self-discovery that comes with adolescence. As the collection progresses, Gorey’s protagonist evolves from a rebellious teen into a young adult, symbolised by the transition from playful prints to more sophisticated designs. Draped furs and tailored plaid suits signify a coming of age, as the protagonist navigates the journey from adolescence to adulthood with style and grace. In essence, Gorey’s AW24 collection is a nostalgic tribute to the trials and triumphs of teenagehood, capturing the essence of youth with a blend of nostalgia and rebellion.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dilara Findikoglu captivated audiences at London Fashion Week with her Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection, “Femme Vortex,” a captivating exploration of divine feminine power and resistance against toxic masculinity. Inspired by Arundhati Roy’s visionary concepts, Findikoglu transported viewers to a parallel dimension where gender norms and patriarchal constructs cease to exist. Comprising 37 meticulously crafted looks, the collection served as a testament to Findikoglu’s creative prowess, with each ensemble embodying the spirit of her imagined characters. With movement director Pat Boguslawski at the helm, the runway became a stage for a powerful ritual aimed at dismantling toxic masculinity and empowering women. The show opened with the striking “Female Territory” ensemble, featuring model Hari Nef in a corporate suit transformed into a symbol of femino-heroic resistance. Throughout the presentation, Findikoglu subverted masculine tropes and societal norms, presenting provocative pieces like “Man License” and “Cleopatra as a CEO,” each challenging the status quo in its own right.

KNWLS

In AW24, the KNWLS woman exudes innate elegance with a rebellious edge, epitomized by a sea-green leather corset and side-buckled skirt. Funnel-neck jackets in charcoal wool and stony denim offer sophistication, while distressed finishes add vintage allure to Bermuda pants in tobacco leather. Linebacker-shoulder wrap coats boasting plunging necklines, crafted from inky wool crepe, sumptuous sable cashmere, and this season’s verdant pebbled hide, evoke the boldness of 80s power dressing. This aesthetic is further reinforced by wide-legged tailored wool trousers featuring a stepped double waistband and internal corset construction, along with the signature boot of the season – a wide-calf stiletto with a formidable toe. A juxtaposition of chic and extraversion is seen in the ‘camouflage’ motif adorning tops and skirts, alongside crushed snakeskin prints on silk pieces. Collaborating with jeweler Arielle de Pinto, chunky chains add an air of decadence to the collection. Liquid jersey dresses and glitched-out graphic mesh pieces exude nonchalance, while cargo-pocketed skirts and techy cotton trousers showcase utilitarianism. In summary, AW24 from KNWLS presents a fusion of elegance and rebellion, with a range of garments that speak to both sophistication and practicality. From luxurious leather corsets to bold linebacker-shoulder coats, the collection embodies a confident yet versatile aesthetic for the modern woman.

Frolov

Ivan Frolov’s latest collection serves as a heartfelt tribute to the cherished and deeply personal memories of his childhood in Crimea. Every summer of his formative years was spent on the enchanting peninsula until its annexation in 2014 abruptly disrupted his connection. The inability to return to this once-beloved place stirred a whirlwind of imagery in his senses, leaving an indelible mark on his understanding of femininity, sexuality, and freedom of expression during the late 90s and 00s. These values of freedom and provocation, central to the ethos of Frolov brands, were born from his experiences in Crimea. The collection features a rich burgundy hue, reminiscent of the leather sofas aboard the Kyiv-Sevastopol trains—a color that symbolizes the anticipation and excitement of those highly-anticipated journeys. The use of corduroy, a new material for the brand, evokes the verdant green of pine needles bathed in sunlight, while gradient embellishments on statement corsets pay homage to the breathtaking sunsets of Crimea and the uneven tan lines of sun-kissed bodies. Drawing inspiration from archival photos and Martin Parr’s Yalta series, the color palette reflects the beach fashion of bygone eras. Oriental motifs, inspired by childhood visits to Bakhchisaray’s Khan’s Palace and cultural media such as the Ukrainian TV series “Roksolana,” add an air of mystique to the collection. The image of Roksolana, torn between slavery and sovereignty, serves as a poignant inspiration for pieces like the black sheer dress paired with lace underwear, evoking the mysterious allure of Crimean Tatar culture.

Susan Fang 

Susan Fang stands out among designers for her rare ability to seamlessly blend kawaii cuteness with intricate, ornate, and decadent techniques. Her collections are a harmonious fusion of hand-knit pastels, ethereal oversized coats, and luminous beading, creating pieces that are both adorable and luxurious. Our introduction to the brand was serendipitous, stumbling upon it in a Parisian gallery long before it gained widespread recognition, where her creations hung like works of art from the ceiling. For her fall 2024 collection, Susan Fang takes her delicate aesthetic to new heights with an expert touch. Organza frills, voluminous ruffles, and exaggerated silhouettes abound, appealing to maximalists with a penchant for drama. What sets her brand apart season after season is not only the collective impact of her collections but also the individuality and statement-making qualities of each piece. Whether it’s a blue coat adorned with fabric flowers or a dress with exaggerated proportions, Susan Fang’s designs challenge conventional notions of wearability while offering a fresh perspective on fashion.

Burberry

Burberry’s fall 2024 presentation in London was a celebration of quintessential English style, underscored by creative director Daniel Lee’s meticulous attention to detail and subtle hints of eccentricity. Set against an Amy Winehouse-inspired soundtrack, the collection showcased a refined palette of neutral browns, olive greens, and khakis, with outerwear taking center stage and accessories receiving careful consideration. Plaid trench coats, cinched at the back, and chunky puffer jackets paired with satchel bags dominated the runway. Beige pinstripe suits exuded timeless elegance, while turtlenecks styled with tucked-in hair added a touch of sophistication. Long maxi skirts and sweaters with fluffy fringe added movement and texture to the collection. Recurring themes included plaid pants with matching scarves, abstract leopard print blouses doubling as scarves, and coats featuring curly fabric details, all reflecting Burberry’s utilitarian ethos with a twist of creativity. The show reached its crescendo with Naomi Campbell gracing the runway in a shaggy, glittering dress that harmonized with the earthy neutral tones of the collection and the astroturf runway. Beyond umbrellas and oversized bags, Burberry foresees scarves worn as hoods emerging as must-have accessories for fall 2024. With a revival of expressive outerwear and the timeless check print, Burberry’s fall collection promises to captivate fashion enthusiasts with its blend of heritage and contemporary flair.