For the first time in years, fashion steps out of its ivory tower and returns to speak of everyday life. For better or for worse. Because more than a flowery meadow, the world outside is a dense forest full of obstacles. Ones that must be faced day by day
Words DOMENICO CASORIA
Prada’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection delves into the archives, extracting fragments of the past to construct a visionary future. Meanwhile, Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci opts for an ethos of extraordinary ordinariness, where beauty is revered as a perpetual quest, never to be taken for granted.
Adrian Appiolaza’s debut at Moschino resonates with a poignant irony, a tool wielded masterfully in navigating the complexities of contemporary fashion. Jil Sander embarks on a sartorial investigation, probing the depths of style to uncover new paradigms. Avavav, in a bold statement, confronts societal issues head-on, inundating the runway with provocative displays that challenge the status quo.
Classic motifs undergo metamorphosis in the hands of Dolce & Gabbana, reimagining the traditional male tuxedo as a hyper-feminine and irresistibly seductive ensemble. Francesco Risso of Marni strips away layers of convention, allowing the collection to flow freely like an unrestrained river. And amidst the fashion landscape, Bottega Veneta emerges as a beacon of transformation, turning barren landscapes into paradisiacal vistas through the transformative power of design.
PRADA
Prada’s runway presentations thrive on their acute interpretation of the external world, a quintessential approach necessary for creating profoundly meaningful fashion. It’s evident that a keen sense of synthesis, coupled with a critical lens adept at digesting societal complexities, is imperative. Beyond mere provocation, the Fall/Winter 2024 women’s collection, orchestrated by the dynamic duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, resounds with echoes of a vibrant past, a weighty present, and an uncertain yet optimistic future. The meticulous dissection of garments and skirts symbolizes an investigative endeavor aimed at elucidating our current standing within the realm of fashion. Analogous to high-stakes auctions, Prada tactfully conceals its hand until the climactic moment, subsequently raising the stakes with a flourish. Long coats in somber hues lead the charge, juxtaposed with silk slips and lace hems exuding an impulsive allure. Military visor caps crown the ensembles, while translucent panties teasingly peek from beneath the fabric folds. Through these irregular cuts, light finds passage, weaving a narrative that transcends mere sartorial conventions. Prada resurrects the stupor mundi of classicism, seamlessly melding it with the fragilities inherent in our contemporary era. It’s a testament to Prada’s unparalleled ability to decipher the nuances of contemporary taste, transcending temporal confines. The emblematic handbags showcased on the runway, predominantly cradled on the arm with a bracelet, epitomize cohesion amidst an industry characterized by flux—where others amplify, Prada consolidates. It’s a narrative we embrace wholeheartedly, reminiscent of an idyllic Edenic garden.
GUCCI
Sabato De Sarno’s latest collection for Gucci marks a departure from convention, embracing a newfound sense of playfulness. In navigating the labyrinthine landscape of Gucci’s aesthetic identity, De Sarno opts for a revolutionary yet understated approach. Amidst a sea of familiarity, he eschews complacency, infusing the collection with a palpable sense of eroticism reminiscent of Tom Ford’s transformative tenure in the 1990s. This subtle shift holds profound implications, opening the doors to a diverse array of feminine expressions. While a silk and lace slip alone may not encapsulate the entirety of femininity, its inclusion serves as a poignant starting point. De Sarno deftly intertwines this latent eroticism with the audacity of biker shorts, juxtaposed against exquisitely tailored and embellished jackets, riding boots, and a kaleidoscope of color and oversized knitwear. The human form, once relegated to the shadows, gradually emerges from obscurity, ensconced in figure-hugging velvet and silk dresses or boldly unveiled in transparent and opulent garments. Whether this fall/winter collection heralds an extraordinary paradigm shift remains to be seen, but the prevailing sentiment suggests that De Sarno has shed the vestiges of apprehension, embracing his role with fervor and delight—an evolution underscored by the cherished legacy of Gucci.
MOSCHINO
Moschino, akin to Mount Everest, presents a formidable challenge—a daunting ascent that requires both technical prowess and an ample supply of oxygen. Adrian Appiolaza, despite facing a compressed timeline, navigates this treacherous terrain with aplomb, reinvigorating a brand that had stagnated in recent years. The legacy of Franco Moschino looms large, his penchant for parody and irreverence now conspicuously absent. Appiolaza confronts a dichotomy—nostalgic reverie versus methodical innovation—and opts for the latter. Delving deep into Moschino’s archival treasures, he resurrects iconic motifs without diluting their essence, embracing the irreverent spirit of yesteryears. In an era marred by excess, satire emerges as a potent tool for dismantling societal constructs—an ethos that Appiolaza deftly embodies. Symbolic gestures abound on the runway, from peace-bearing dresses to whimsical smiley motifs adorning garments and accessories. Appiolaza’s meticulous curation of Moschino’s legacy serves as a poignant reminder of fashion’s enduring power to provoke, to challenge, and ultimately, to transcend.
JIL SANDER
Lucie and Luke Meier embark on a nuanced exploration of Jil Sander’s sartorial lexicon, dissecting each garment with surgical precision. This meticulous endeavor, while ostensibly laborious, yields a reimagined narrative—one that reveres the brand’s heritage while charting a course towards newfound horizons. As Bernard Rudofsky astutely observed, fashion serves as a medium for shaping bodies, an assertion underscored by Jil Sander’s latest foray into voluminous silhouettes. The Fall/Winter 2024 collection serves as a symphony of sound and volume, juxtaposing the ethereal invisibility of sound waves with the tangible presence of sculpted forms. Geometric sections, though softened, remain the cornerstone of this avant-garde aesthetic, celebrating elongated coats, leather tunics, capes, and oversized jackets that eschew concealment in favor of accentuation. Delving into the minutiae, Lucie and Luke Meier eschew banality in favor of a daring exploration—an odyssey that places the human form squarely at its nexus. No longer relegated to the periphery, the body emerges as both canvas and muse, its contours celebrated in a sublime symphony of texture and form. Jil Sander’s manifesto is resolute—an unapologetic assertion of individuality amidst a sea of conformity
AVAVAV
Avavav’s latest collection transcends mere sartorialism, emerging as a potent commentary on societal mores and conventions. Beate Karlsson, the creative visionary behind the brand, orchestrates a provocative tableau—one that blurs the boundaries between narration, reflection, and fashion. Garbage rains down upon the runway, a visceral reminder of the acrimony and vitriol endemic to our digital age. Attendees, complicit in this dystopian spectacle, bear witness to a truth—one that transcends mere irony, yielding to a profound sense of unease. The garments themselves, assembled haphazardly yet purposefully, serve as shields against the onslaught of societal decay—a tangible manifestation of emotional fortitude in the face of adversity. Avavav confronts us with the rawest of truths, laying bare our complicity in perpetuating a culture of toxicity and indifference. Fashion, in its purest form, emerges as both poison and antidote—a catalyst for introspection and change.
MARNI
Francesco Risso’s magnum opus for Marni’s 30th anniversary celebration is a symphony of liberation—a bold declaration of independence amidst a sea of conformity. Drawing inspiration from childhood memories of rummaging through closets, Risso eschews convention, stripping away the superfluous to reveal the raw essence beneath. Against the backdrop of Milan’s Central Station, a white paper cave emerges—a metaphorical crucible wherein dissent and rebirth intertwine. The garments, emblematic of this revolutionary spirit, defy categorization—unbound by convention or constraint. Risso’s aesthetic is at once primal and poetic, celebrating wide volumes and fluid contours that embrace the human form with fervent abandon. Animal prints, vibrant hues, and ethereal textures converge in a harmonious cacophony—a testament to Risso’s unwavering commitment to authenticity and innovation. Marni’s manifesto is unequivocal—a clarion call to embrace the untamed wilderness within.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana redefine the sartorial landscape with a collection that defies convention and expectation. Against a backdrop of obsidian hues, the duo conjures a tapestry of allure and sensuality—a provocative ode to femininity in all its guises. “Tuxedo” emerges as the fulcrum of this audacious narrative—a synthesis of masculine and feminine energies, entwined in a pas de deux of unbridled passion. Lace, feathers, and assertive lingerie converge in a symphony of eroticism, dismantling the archaic constructs of traditionalism with effortless aplomb. As the collection unfolds, a palpable sense of liberation permeates the runway—a testament to Dolce & Gabbana’s unwavering commitment to redefining the boundaries of beauty and desire. The imagery, at once visceral and evocative, serves as a potent reminder of the transformative power of fashion—a conduit for dreams yet unspoken, desires yet unfulfilled.
BOTTEGA VENETA
Matthieu Blazy’s latest collection for Bottega Veneta is a triumph of restraint—a masterclass in understated elegance amidst a world in turmoil. Eschewing ostentation for pragmatism, Blazy crafts a narrative that celebrates the quotidian, elevating the mundane to the realm of the extraordinary. Silhouettes, simplified yet sublime, exude an air of quiet confidence—a testament to the resilience inherent in everyday life. Against a backdrop of desolation, oversized trenches, cascading feathers, and undulating fringes emerge as beacons of hope—a testament to the indomitable spirit of the human condition. Bottega Veneta’s manifesto is one of resilience and renewal—a poignant reminder that even amidst the ashes of destruction, beauty yet thrives.
TOD’S
Matteo Tamburini selected the Messina Tram Depot in northern Milan as the venue to unveil his inaugural Tod’s collection, a symbolic gesture signaling the brand’s forward momentum (underscored by the sight of yellow Milanese trams emblazoned with the Tod’s logo for the occasion). This choice of locale resonated deeply with the collection’s thematic inspirations, which Tamburini described as a quest for contemporary Italian elegance—a fusion of streetwise energy and an unwavering reverence for local craftsmanship. Against the backdrop of a misty morning, models appeared to rush to catch the tram, epitomizing the dynamic spirit of urban life. For both men and women, Tamburini endeavored to curate a comprehensive wardrobe of luxurious essentials, ranging from layers of sumptuous ribbed knitwear and voluminous trench coats to statement leather gowns adorned with cascading tassels—a subtle homage to his tenure at Bottega Veneta from 2017 to 2023. However, it was in the sleek and streamlined ensembles that Tamburini truly shone, as evidenced by the show’s opening looks: sharply tailored overcoats paired with double-layer striped shirts and elegantly flared trousers with wide folded hems—an effortlessly contemporary silhouette that resonated with the modern urbanite. Footwear, a cornerstone of the Tod’s brand, underwent a subtle evolution under Tamburini’s stewardship. For men, a revamped version of the iconic Gommino loafer featured a minimalist metal bar in lieu of the traditional tie fastening, exuding a refined yet understated charm. Meanwhile, for women, the classic loafer was embellished with whimsical leather tassels, adding a playful touch to the brand’s timeless elegance.
