This season, the body took command. As the ultimate battleground, it has been thoroughly explored: portrayed in its most alluring form, occasionally subdued, stripped of layers, and meticulously redefined. Placed at the heart of an ancient journey and subjected to rituals.
Ultimately, in Milan, the body reigned supreme. Engaged in struggle. Body and fashion. Struggle and manifesto
Words DOMENICO C
MSGM
There’s a poetic essence in MSGM’s fall/winter collection, drawing inspiration from Truman Capote. Massimo Giorgetti delves into the lives of the American journalist’s rich and snobbish friends, known as the ‘Swans,’ who populated the international jet-set in the 1960s. Yet, Giorgetti’s collection flips the grandiose style of these icons, focusing instead on a liberated femininity, allergic to conventions and rules. Giorgetti’s women stand in stark contrast to Capote’s. They aren’t sophisticated or elegant; they don’t exude arrogance. They are women who shatter molds, entering the bourgeois world to dismantle it from within. However, in doing so, they borrow symbols of everything they reject. Plates, glasses, silverware, and crystals become studs adorning garments. With zippers in shades of pink and yellow, Giorgetti opens a window to a new world. “Other Voices, Other Rooms” is a punk collection characterized by voluminous silhouettes and shimmering fabrics. Capote’s swans were wealthy, influential, glamorous socialites – yet trapped in a gilded cage of impositions and conventions. MSGM’s women, however, belong to a new generation that disrupts through struggle, force, and poetry.
N° 21
Change doesn’t always require battle. Some revolutions emerge gently and remain so. Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s N° 21 brings forth a collection that combines elegance and contemporaneity. Dell’Acqua reinterprets the iconic codes of his maison, making space for female individuality. This individuality manifests through garments that are no longer singular blocks but collages of various pieces – skirts assembled from different panels or fabric layering adorned with stones and embroidery. The collection also draws from menswear, juxtaposing tweed with stricter cuts. For fall/winter, Dell’Acqua takes on bon ton with the clear intention of deconstructing it, infusing a hint of anarchy and abandoning impositions.
FIORUCCI
The collection narrates love stories, romance novels, and emotions. Creative Director Francesca Murri intertwines the brand with the free and glamorous spirit of pop culture, revisiting the wardrobe between tradition and innovation. At the heart of Fiorucci’s story is a catalyst: an eccentric lady distributing colorful candies with the magical ability to inspire love. Beyond the photo novel, the collection pays homage to Andy Warhol’s filmography, where life unfolds before the camera without intervention. Each element exudes a “sugar-coated” aesthetic, from clothing to accessories. Details enrich fabrics, ranging from denim to lycra, renewing their identity. The reinterpreted underwear integrates playfully, layering the outfit. Streetwear elements, like classic sweatshirts paired with visible garter belts, become audacious symbols of irreverence and creativity. The iconic “Mella” bag takes on unprecedented dimensions and materials, including a version entirely encrusted with rhinestones.
ANIYE RECORDS
Rebellion serves to redefine fashion. Alessandra Marchi understands this well, as Aniye Records presents a collection for Fall Winter that combines sexiness with rock. Seductive dresses dominate the runway, adorned with lace, tulle, corsets, garters, bondage corsets, transparencies, vinyl boots, animal prints, crosses, and revisited crinolines. The lingerie makes a theatrical statement, merging the private dimension with a new idea of the body.
JACOB COHËN
Jacob Cohën presents a powerful ode to strong, courageous femininity. The collection explores freedom and the myriad facets of self. Starting with denim for its resilience and versatility, the clothes twist, shorten, expand, then moderate. Cropped denim jackets, recycled wool, aviator sheepskin, contrast with fluid trousers in precious wool or denim. Quilted jeans are paired with shirt-miniskirt combinations. Luxurious wool trench coats envelop the body, reflecting newfound self-assurance. Women and men alike affirm themselves and their narratives in the world.
DURAZZI
“Continuous Theater” is Durazzi’s collection, rooted in a community of women traversing snowy landscapes and desolate deserts, challenging the cold and founding a world of beauty, ritual, and magic. The brand embodies a nomadic tribe, a traveling theater company that builds its identity from every corner of the world. Durazzi stages a tripartite space where performers speak of existential journeys. The collection unfolds gradually, through a path of progressive undressing, originating on a frozen lake surface. Embraced performers dance in a ritual celebrating community and life’s rebirth after winter frost. The cyclical movement reflects life’s randomness, celebrating rebirth and evolution. Drawing from menswear and tailoring, the collection focuses on details and material quality. Embracing imperfection, the intentionally unfinished garments boast essential silhouettes inspired by minimalist architecture. Fashion, in this case, emerges from chance, travel, sisterhood, and the deepest emotions that surface when shedding fears. A perpetual dance of self-affirmation.”
TOM FORD
Hawkings elevates the runway to a realm of unparalleled glamour and sophistication, where each ensemble serves as a captivating homage to the brand’s timeless aesthetic. With its sweeping, sinuous silhouettes, the collection encapsulates the very essence of contemporary femininity, while daring, sensual embellishments bestow an aura of enigmatic allure.
A sumptuous color palette sets a scene of opulence and refinement, complemented by the exquisite textures of fine fabrics like patent leather and flamed velvet, which beckon tactile exploration.
This is an epitome of refined beauty, seamlessly fusing the artistry of precision tailoring with the seductive allure of luxurious textiles. The outcome is a resolute collection that boldly transcends conventional norms, offering a vision of elegance that is truly unparalleled.
