A round up of what went on during the Womenswear Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2023

 

Words Gianmarco Gronchi

 

Just seven very fast and frenetic days, but the Milan Fashion Week has given us so much food for thought, as it always does. Despite a hectic, suffocating schedule – look what happened at the end of Missoni fashion show! – the Italian fashion scene seems to return to its genuine and nonchalant glamour. For the next Summer season, most fashion designers have a clear vision. Finally, the body is what collections are about, claiming back the right to perform fashion, to give it life, to reach a new peak of signification. As far as we can see, the metaverse speculative bubble has already burst out. Fashion is back at its analogic, seductive form. And this journey to rediscover the innermost meanings of dressing implies a new appreciation of physicality, which should be the main referent for any fashion creation. Milan puts on the stage sensual violence, which would be an antidote to many myths of the modern age. Despite a quête toward democratic and inclusive luxury, what we have seen on the Milanese catwalks confirms that fashion is refractory to arbitrarily imposed dogmatisms. At a glance, it is a triumph of sexiness. Body inclusivity, genderless trend, and all the other false promises of rhetoric as facile as it is deceptive have been flushed away this season. That leaves fashion, with its unhinged and anachronistic leanings toward luxury and dreamy bodies. Tyrannical, elitist, unnecessary: and that’s perfectly fine, as it should be.

Antonio Marras

Calcaterra

Marco Rambaldi

Diesel 

Fendi

Del Core

AC9

N.21

Roberto Cavalli

Andreadamo

Max Mara

Dsquared2

Anteprima

Daniela Grecis

Prada

MM6 Maison Margiela

Act N.1

Emporio Armani 

Moschino

Blumarine 

Boss

Tod’s

Missoni

Sportmax

Etro

Gucci

Cormio

Sunnei

Vivetta

Versace

Ermanno Scervino

MSGM

Salvatore Ferragamo

Jil Sander

Dolce & Gabbana

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Bottega Veneta 

Moncler

Han Kjøbenhavn

Annakiki

Hui

Giorgio Armani

Matty Bovan supported by Dolce & Gabbana

Aniye Records