Very quick recap from London Fashion Week(end)
Ahead of Milan Fashion Week, a very short fashion weekend lighted London’s streets and catwalks. Celebrating 40 years of English events, the weekend was packed with presentations and events to present new menswear collections for Summer 2025. Here a very quick round-up of the highlights.
Charles Jeffrey
For Spring 2025, the ingenious avant-garde designer Charles Jeffrey has unveiled a menswear collection that is a true spectacle. Playful, campy, and brimming with theatrical flair, this collection is poised to enchant even the most reserved fashion critics. The weekend was a jubilant celebration of Jeffrey’s remarkable decade-long influence in the fashion industry, featuring a memorable performance by singer Beth Ditto, who sang Patti Smith’s “Gloria” with a choir backing her from the balcony. This was more than a fashion show; it was a celebration of Charles Jeffrey’s LOVERBOY era. The collection showcases Jeffrey’s signature layering and deconstruction techniques, essential elements of the LOVERBOY brand. Picture sheer fabrics intermingling with heavy wool, and asymmetrical cuts creating a stunning visual disarray. Each ensemble was a visual symphony, inviting onlookers to immerse themselves in a complex, deconstructed dreamscape. Dominated by exaggerated sleeves and bold, dramatic makeup, the runway became a theatrical stage where each model transformed into a character, and each outfit narrated a distinct story. The models’ confident strides and attitudes perfectly complemented the collection, highlighting the essence of LOVERBOY’s creative vision. Jeffrey’s collection offered a whimsical exploration of nautical and military styles, with a playful twist that was quintessentially camp. Structured jackets were embellished with epaulettes, badges, and an abundance of swagger. This delightful fusion of tradition and fantasy created an exuberant and eclectic mix that felt both nostalgic and futuristic, pushing the boundaries of contemporary menswear.
Genaro Rivas
Peruvian designer Genaro Rivas made his highly anticipated debut in the menswear category at London Fashion Week with his collection “AERION.” This event marks the second consecutive appearance of a Peruvian representative at this prestigious fashion event. Rivas’s “AERION” collection, inspired by the interplay of light and shadow, features a futuristic aesthetic that blends elements of Peruvian heritage with a contemporary vision. The designer utilized ethically sourced materials such as alpaca wool and bamboo fibers mixed with Incalpaca silk, seamlessly integrating tradition and innovation into his designs. Handwoven garments and a color palette featuring concrete tones with accents of orange-red, ecru, and blue reflect a harmonious blend of timelessness and modernity. Rivas’s commitment to sustainable fashion is evident in the organic forms and responsible textiles used throughout the collection. Additionally, Rivas continues his East Fusion project, developed with support from the Foundation For Future London and the Westfield Creative Future Funds. This initiative includes the creation of a manual for developing collections in East London, a project that began during his studies at the London College of Fashion. “AERION” also features innovative pieces such as garments made from Japanese silk provided by Saki Textiles, Turkish brocades from Fabric Textile Central, recycled cotton, and digitally printed linens from Maake, alongside Peruvian textiles and designs with volume. Rivas has crafted unique items using thermoformed acrylic, all handmade, maintaining a zero-waste vision. This debut solidifies Rivas’s position in the fashion world, showcasing his ability to merge cultural heritage with forward-thinking design and sustainability.
Laura Andraschko
Laura Andraschko emerged as one of the standout new designers this season, alongside names like Denzil Patrick and Harri. Concluding the London Fashion Week June, she hosted her show in the rustic setting of the Wormwood Scrubs Pony Centre, offering a playful and satirical take on the Sloane Ranger stereotype. The collection featured equestrian jackets with exaggerated, menacing shoulders, bubble-skirted tennis sweaters, and quirky ballet pump-riding boot hybrids. Andraschko’s tongue-in-cheek approach was further emphasized with slogan tees and oversized hoodies emblazoned with phrases such as “My Boyfriend Went To Eton” and “Entitled C**T,” clearly targeting those on the hunt for a finance bro. These pieces are bound to resonate well on social media. Styled by fellow Central Saint Martins alum Lily Bling, the collection showcased a creative partnership capable of humorously critiquing themselves and the entirety of west London.
Qasimi
Qasimi made a notable return to the runway, unveiling its Spring Summer 2025 collection. This event marked the first live show under the creative direction of Hoor Al Qasimi since she assumed the role in 2020. In a groundbreaking collaboration with renowned artist Kambui Olujimi, Qasimi presented a collection that skillfully merges art, sculpture, and fashion, delving into deep themes of identity, history, and sociopolitics. Reflecting on the partnership, Al Qasimi commented, “Working with Olujimi allowed us to deeply explore these themes, perfectly aligning with Qasimi’s ethos of cultural dialogue and storytelling.” The collaboration played a pivotal role in shaping the collection, heavily inspired by Olujimi’s impactful “When Monuments Fall” series. This body of work reexamines the recontextualization of monuments, their societal roles, and the dynamics of power they symbolize. Under Al Qasimi’s guidance, the design team proposed new narratives through the reinterpretation of shapes and forms. Central to the collection is the concept of “spolia,” which involves incorporating elements from older structures into new designs, effectively recontextualizing Qasimi’s identity by blending historical influences with contemporary aesthetics. The garments in this collection showcase a blend of fluid and structured silhouettes, symbolizing the ever-changing nature of monuments. Key fabrics include medium-weight silk twill, sheer cotton voile, and a luxurious silk-wool blend. Techniques such as digital printing, image granulation, and fading are employed to evoke the passage of time and the evolving significance of the original artworks. Expressing his excitement for the project, Olujimi remarked, “I was thrilled to collaborate with Qasimi because of their history of international collaborations and their eagerness for experimentation.” Held at Wapping Power Station, the show used the industrial setting to underscore the themes of transformation and reinvention. The venue provided a striking backdrop for a collection that highlights the interplay between Qasimi’s visual identity and Olujimi’s works, continuing Qasimi’s longstanding relationship with the arts. As models graced the runway, each ensemble narrated a story of cultural dialogue and artistic reimagining. The use of spolia invited the audience to consider the layers of history and meaning embedded in each garment. The combination of fluidity and structure in the silhouettes, along with the intricate fabric techniques, created a visual narrative that was both intellectually stimulating and visually captivating.
Denzilpatrick
For Spring/Summer 2025, Denzilpatrick has returned to their roots, showcasing their latest collection in London for a homecoming runway that perfectly captures the city’s vibrant essence. Every season, the creative duo Daniel Gayle and James Bosley of Denzilpatrick celebrate the rich diversity of London—its people and its spirit. This collection speaks the sartorial language of leisure, transitioning from the rehearsal room to the poolside. No matter how we play, we play with passion and heart. Daniel and James reinterpret British club uniforms with a fresh, summer perspective. Traditional uniform tailoring is revitalized under the open skies and sunlight. Iconic pieces like donkey jackets, stay-pressed trousers, shirts, and the perennial knitted singlet are reimagined to be ultra-light and layered. Tracksuits are given a new life with delicate, airy fabrics, embodying the pride of London. The formal beauty of trade union regalia is transformed to suit the lightness of summer, gracing silk linings, draped shirts, and adorning modern twin-sets. Rich, symbolic textiles are repurposed for poolside wear, while military trimmings are crafted into soft-play summer accessories. Whether sunbathing in the park or relaxing outside a pub at sunset, this collection captures the spirit of a summer filled with both work and play, embodying gentle strength and a touch of heroism.
