Here you can find the most sensational things we saw at the presentations of this fashion week SS24
Text by: Nicola Sacchi
LARDINI Sky & Sand
Sky and sand is a journey into the soul of a man who embraces his past and opens up to the future. The S/S 2024 collection starts from primitive elements, inspired by the atmospheres of an imaginary desert that gives chromatic and formal appeal to a streamlined silhouette, minimal, yet exquisite in every detail: from the jewelled buttons to the gold threads that run through the fabrics of the shirts and the surfaces of the evening jackets, illuminated in the same way as the stars do to the dark night in the Sahara; from the footwear that echoes the comfort of babouches – made in collaboration with Lidfort – to the unexpected pendant jewellery that functions as talismans. Aesthetic influences are deliberately fragmentary, for a narrative reminiscent of 1930s dandyism, 1940s Hollywood chic, and the tapered proportions of the 1970s: everything, however, is remixed by a solid desire for change. The initial spark is offered by a dreamy, undefined journey to North Africa. Combining the past and the present in a continuum of sand, water, wind and light, a lexicon of elegance is recreated through slender proportions, larger volumes for bomber jackets and jackets, some of which have rounded lapels like a dinner jacket or even no collar, in the manner of a tunic. Extremely light, they nevertheless maintain a very precise profile: they have prominent shoulders, a tight-fitting body, which, in suits, surmount generously wide trousers and embroidered blouses resembling short djellabas.
SANTONI
The land and its many shades. This is how Santoni narrates Spring-Summer 2024: a journey into the deep essence of Marche, local traditions and natural landscapes.
A reinterpretation of the brand’s codes from a contemporary perspective and in which materials, shapes and colors coexist in perfect alchemy and with respect for sensitive and sophisticated craftsmanship.
Original classicism and technical virtuosity are the dominant aspects of the formal lines, among which this season stand out: the special lace-up, iconic for the Maison, with the perfect purity of its lines and personalized by poetic ton-sur-ton engravings on the upper; the Figaro model, a new square-toe interpretation of the classic city moccasin, offered in both lace-up and tasseled versions; the iconic loafers, unfailing the double-buckle model, embellished with plays of interlacing, dry lines and offered in a mix of leathers and patinas for every occasion. Distinguished by a tangible heritage, even the more casual line models and sneakers interpret the Maison’s leisure with clean shapes and unique details. The new DBS Olympic combines sportswear references with timeless design. A trainer with a vaguely retro shape and flavor, it features contrasting color details and the iconic double buckle, which seals the design with its graphic shape. New colors also for the seasonal Sneak-Air variants, with air-spray shades and non-animal uppers, while the Double Buckle Sneaker proposed, among others, also in the refined Bruciato-colored calfskin variant is dressed in a classic style.
MCM
For Spring Summer 2024, MCM reappropriates this iconoclastic ethos to create a future-oriented collection designed for a new generation of digital nomads who reject typical luxury standards and follow their own individuality. The accessories in this collection, called Made for Movement, are reimagined for greater versatility and multifunctionality and made in a multiplicity of innovative unconventional materials. With ready-to-wear, he introduces sportswear with an urban soul in travel-ready crease-resistant fabrics that escapes traditional distinctions between work and leisure garments and can be worn anytime and for any occasion. Exploring MCM’s heritage, the collection highlights the stylistic codes that have characterized its renowned visual identity since 1976: the classic Visetos pattern is deconstructed into its iconic Laurel and Diamond motifs, MCM lettering, and cognac color. Each pillar is refined through an interplay of dimensions and proportions, which are found in the motifs and graphic applications throughout the collection, introducing a new visual identity that winks at the past but looks to the future, representing a badge of independence for a contemporary, discerning, value-driven consumer. A true zeitgeist. MCM embodies a new era of sophistication, embracing the freedom of travel and the spirit of inclusion while meeting the needs of the 21st century digital nomad. MCM encourages individuals to explore the world without constraint, ushering in a new paradigm of unlimited possibilities for the nomadic souls of today and tomorrow, including in the Metaverse.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
The quest for elegance forms the center of gravity of Brunello Cucinelli’s new Spring Summer 2024 Collection, designed to offer the means through which the individuality of the contemporary man is fully expressed.
Fresh colors, soft volumes, garments with carefully calibrated character, paisley patterns and French riviera-inspired details offer the versatile palette of elegance at the service of the person. The point of reference is always the man and his choices. The unique appeal of natural, délavé and flamed textures enhances the summer colors, which are paired with timeless neutrals to create new, fresh and intense balances. Contemporary appeal is ensured by the soft volumes, interpreters of new proposals in all categories. Always selected for lightness and comfort, excellent fabrics and leathers enhance nuances and lines through their unique character based on natural qualities.
The quality of the materials and craftsmanship transfers the same guiding values of the season into the lines of the accessories, marked by contemporary elegance in the service of a distinctive personality.
